York Evaporator Coil replacement?

An air conditioning tech last year told me my evaporator coil is leaky (checked with an ion detector), and needed replaced. He refilled the system at the time, but it's no longer working (lasted about 3 months). Anyway, he estimated the replacement/repair job to cost about $900-$1000 or so.. I'm looking to buy the part myself and possibly contract out the labor (unless it's easy enough to do.. I know solder, and am fairly handy with tools). My problem is that I can't figure out exactly what part number to order, as I don't know the tonage of the system. The model number of the coil is York #M3Uf044SA, and it was manufactured in 1992 (installed about 1994). Serial number is EGAS214289. It is installed as an upflow on top of the furnace, but is not an A-frame design.. It is 7x22x22 inches (HxWxD), and I have a total of about 30 of vertical space to work with if I get an A-Frame coil. The condensor unit's label is mostly unreadable due to weathering, but I can tell you it says R-22 on it.. Does anyone out there know what part would be the correct/best replacement? Or at least what size unit this is?? (I think it is either 3 or 3.5 tons) Thanks! -- Eric of capacity, may be 44,000 btu, what are the numbers off the outdoor unit? dimensions you give will accommodate the new a coil Ok, I found the warranty card for the outside unit, which includes the model number. It is York #H2DA042S06A, which I expect is 3.5 tons (42K BTU).. It lists outdoor PSI at 430, and indoor at 220. it's easy for me to say.BUT,if it were me I would locate the leak and repair it.PDF Well.. According to the HVAC tech who looked at the system last year, the coil cannot be repaired, and must be replaced. It's an aluminum coil, and he said it can't be patched.. Another question.. I spoke with an HVAC contractor, and he said he thought it unlikely that the evaporator coil is the problem.. He thinks there is likely a leak somewhere else, but that detecting the leak is very tricky, and it's going to cost me at least $200 just for him to look for the leak (which there's no guarantee he can find).. Sounded like he was basically saying without replacing the whole system, there's no way to be sure there isn't a leak. Is there any way for me to look for the leak myself, or do I need to shell out the $200+ for someone to come out and test it again.. Last year a different contractor told me the leak was in the evaporator coil, but this guy doubts that analysis.. -- Eric I once worked for a company in Baltimore back in the 70d's......I also attened the Wash Caps and Pittsburgh play off game that was the 2nd longest in play of history.I know this info does not help you Eric but,hey the forum does not have to be all work.Anyways,I HAVE never seen an AL evap coil made by YORK....I could be wrong so wait for other replys.In the 80's Carrier made a condenser coil of AL---it was alot of problems---reason being when installed close to the Maine shoreline the salt water ate the coils apart---AND under warranty.I am a TECH and not a salesman---I will try to help---give the the M# and S# of the coil they want to install---I will try to give you a price of the coil---remember the price will be wholesale.PDF Its a given.....leaks are sometimes very hard to find, but I'll give you a clue. With an electronic or even a halide, it wouldn't cost you 200 to find it unless it was buried underground. That York coil you have is a dog and very well could NOT be brazed without removal. You've got plenty of head room. Have a pro replace it with an a-coil/cabinet and he has the necessary recharge/vacumn equiptment and know-do it right, and with a WARRANTY. The tech that was out last year used an electronic detector, which beeped when placed next to the evaporator coil.. This other guy says he doesn't think that's the problem.. Says he doesn't trust the electronic detectors or even dye packs. What's a halide detector?? I'm probably going to just replace it and hope for the best.. -- Eric I think I'd tell the other guy that doesn't think much of the detection of a refrigerant leak with an electronic leak detector because he doesn't trust them, to take a hike. Don't know where the name halide came from but its a small torch-type head that attaches to a propane bottle. When lit, the flame passes over a copper disc and the reaction between this and freon gases, turns the flame color to blue, with 100% accuracy. This and soap bubbles, preceeded electronics as far back into the 50's as I can remember. Go for a new coil. Ok.. I have a technician coming out wednesday to replace the evaporator coil for $750 (parts and labor). He said they'll also check for leaks in the lines after presurizing the system, and will repair any they find for no extra charge unless a leak is found in the compressor. Does $750 sound like a good deal? Thanks to all that responded. -- Eric I tink 750 for the coil replacement, leak yst, evacuate and recharge is reasonable. Go for it. Ask for their service/labor waranty. Labor is warranted for 1 year, 5 years on the part. I had Kensington HC come out, and replace the evaporator coil this past Wednesday.. They sent a 3-man team, and did the job in less than 2 hours, and it cost me $750. My house is blissfully cool again. Hopefully there won't be any more leaks in the system now..

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Which RotoZip model?

Hi all, My mom is looking to buy a rotozip for my dad this Christmas. I was looking at the site and it appears there are at least 8 different models to choose from. Unfortunately, the rotozip website doesn't have any sort of comparison chart to differentiate the models. The website mentions: DR1, RZ1, RZ5, RZ10, RZ20, RZ25, CR18L, RZ2000. Can anyone help explain the differences? My dad usually enjoys handyman type projects at his house and mine. We've done lots of drywall work, plumbing, ceramic tile, granite tile, formica, cabinet/door, and other woodworking projects. Power and versatility take precedence over price. Dad is just starting to enjoy the idea of chordless, however, if there was a big sacrifice in power, he'd probably prefer chorded. My mom was also considering that dual saw that we've seen on TV. Personally, I've seen better reviews with the RotoZip. But if anybody has thoughts on the dual saw, I'd appreciate that as well. Thanks Not sure what you mean by dual saw...if you mean a Fein MultiMaster, I'm sure he'd love it. If you don't tell him the price...lol FEIN Power Tools Inc. - FEIN MULTIMASTER - The universal system for interior work and renovation. The RZ20 looks like a good bet...I see it doesn't use collets for the bits, it uses a chuck like a drill. One less thing to have to mess with. The RZ10 may also have that...and I see they are both variable speed.... Ok, the manual downloaded. The 10 and 20 seem similar except the 20 has LED worklights. The 5 is a single speed..so I'd probably skip that one. I see the 20 is available at HD for $159..with the cutting attachment....not too bad a deal it seems. Gunguy: Oooh...the Fein Multimaster...I hadn't even considered that one. I know he's talked about that one in the past. Now you gave me another tool to think about. Mom was originally looking at the Omni Dualsaw (https://www.dualsaw.com/) Thanks for your efforts on the rotozip info. I'll look deeper into the RZ20. That's a good place to start. Their website could have done a better job with a comparison chart or something. Ohhh ok yeah now I know what you mean...Sears has/had those first time I saw one, I think theirs was bigger. Well, that to me is kind of a non-specialized tool that just wouldn't see that much usage...at least not from me. A do anything tool rarely does anything as well as the original. Btw...there are many copies of the Fein out there now, some are ok, some aren't. I've heard comments that the Dremel version is heavy, vibrates and gets hot. Of course it costs about a third of the Fein. I have one of the first Roto-Zips; I bought mine from an infomercial. The first thing I did, well, after using it a couple of times, was to change out the cord for one about 25 feet long. Made all the difference in the world, especially when working on a ladder cutting holes for recessed light fixtures. I wouldn't get a cordless unless your father is going to use it on a pretty much constant (at least weekly) basis. My experience is that cordless tools just don't have the power and the battery life is poor for handyman-type usage. The angle saw attachment looks really neat but I don't have one so I don't know how well it works. I don't know how much the variable speed really adds to the usability of the tool. My experience with other variable speed tools (other than a drill) would tend towards not much more than a sales pitch. Harbor Freight has a copy of the Fein Multimaster for 10% of the cost of the genuine article. My comments on handyman vs. professional usage would certainly apply here. I read about someone, a pro, that had both the Fein and the HF model and he stated that there is no doubt the Fein is the better tool and most likely will last for years in continuous usage but for the cost the HF model was a decent tool. As for the Dual Saw...the infomercial makes it look really neat for a casual user but I wonder how much a handyman type would really use it and IF it really is as good as the infomercial makes it to be. Thanks Furd, I just got an email response from rotozip that sheds a little more light on model comparisons: The RZ1 is a 5.0 amp. single speed 30,000 rpm tool, all attachments will fit. No parts available. The RZ5 is a 5.0 amp. single speed 30,000 rpm tool, all attachments will fit. No parts available. The RZ10 is a 5.5 amp. variable speed 15,000 - 30,000 tool, all attachments will Fit. No parts available. The RZ20 is a 5.5 amp. Variable speed 15,000 - 30,000 tool with lights, all Attachments will fit. No parts available. The RZ2000 is a 6.0 amp. variable speed 15,000 - 30,000 tool, no attachments Will fit. There are brushes available. The CR18L is cordless 18 volt single speed 30,000 tool, no attachments will fit. There are no parts available. I've pretty much ruled out the dual saw as my thoughts are basically the same as yours. I'm still thinking about the Fein or a knock-off. It looks to me like the RZ10 (or RZ20) would be the best fit. It would also make for a good source of follow-up gifts with the availability of different attachments. It would also make for a good source of follow-up gifts have you considered being adopted? It's always nice to get tools that you can use and need You wouldn't believe how many screwdriver sets I've been given over the years Generally the more amps an electric motor has - the more power it's got. I just looked at my Roto-Zip and it is model SCS (Spiral Cut Saw) 01. I still like it and think it is a wonderful tool but the later models are really much nicer. Hello, My dad has the Fein MultiMaster, and I was thinking about getting him the Rotozip RZ2000 for Christmas. I was wondering what each tool specialized in, and if one might replace the other. He is working a lot with drywall, hanging it, cutting out receptacles, finishing it, etc. and I don't think I've seen him using the MultiMaster for it. Is the MultiMaster more for sanding and grinding? If so, would it be a good idea to get him the RZ2000? I just wanted to make sure that the RZ2000 didn't do the same thing that the MultiMaster does, so if possible, could someone help me out and tell me what each tool specializes in and if the Rotozip RZ2000 would make a good Christmas present used mainly for drywall? Thank you! I don't have an oscillating saw (Fein) but I can say that the Roto-Zip is definitely NOT a replacement for the oscillating saw. While there may be some crossover of the work each will do, having both tools would definitely be a plus in my opinion. I agree with Furd - I'd be happy opening up a Roto-Zip if I had an oscillating saw.

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Well Pump and Low Pressure when multiple faucets are on.

I have been noticing that my water pressure from the well is dropping of when there is more than one thing demanding water. I seemed to notice it last summer when watering the lawn and now it's to the point where if the washer is on you only get a small trickle from the faucet. Here are my observations. -Pressure tank seems to be good still sounds hollow at the top. -When i let the hose run the pressure dropped to less than 10PSI assuming gauge is correct. Please see other info below. Any help would be appreciated. Well 1: submersible pump or jet pump. (Submersible) 2: age of well if known. (Not Sure 7 years) 3: depth of well if known. 4: diameter of well if known. 5: voltage of pump if known. 6: brand of pump/controller if known. (Pumpirol class 9013 Square D) 20 on 40 off 7: size of tank if known. (brand HT44 44 gallon i think) Welcome to the forum. What kind of filtering do you have in place and when was the filter(s) last changed? With my current setup, the volume/pressure will drop if there is more then 1 demand (by about half). If I start to notice what you are seeing, it's normally due to my filters needing to be changed. I think Northern Mike is on the rite track. It sounds like you have an obstruction or restriction somewhere. If you have a filter that would be the first place to start. Also check any shutoff valves you have in the line. Make sure they are fully open. You can also open a outdoor hose bib and then open and close your shutoff valve several times to see if you dislodge any accumulated debris. Next on the list I would start looking for any steel piping or fittings in the system. The interiors can rust which grows, shrinking the interior diameter of the pipe restricting flow. Oh, and welcome to the forum. thanks for the replies. As far as i can tell line comes right in from well to pressure tank i don't have any filters that i know of. Even the line the doesn't go through the water softener will loose pressure when water is on for more than 10 minutes. I made sure all valves were open and can't find any that were partailly closed. Also the other day when running one hose outside (no other water drain) after about 10 10 minutes the was very little pressure. I went and looked at the PSI gauge and it was at 10PSI and falling. It will eventually build back up, but now sure where the problem is. It sounds to me like the problem is right at the pump. Could be clogged inlet screen. Possibly low flow into well. You're not sure of age or depth of well. Are you new to the house.... never had any well work done ? When you place a lot of demand on a system, and the pressure tank runs out of water, then the only pressure you are getting is from the pump. When the pump starts to wear out, or the well is starting to run dry or there is an obstruction, such as calcium buildup on the inlet screen, the volume and pressure will go down. Wells and pumps don't usually quit altogether overnight. Often they give out signals that they are in distress. This could be a signal that your system needs attention. Another signal that is often ignored is a normally clean water well pulling up some mud after a long run. i don't unfortunatley know the age or depth not ever had any work done on it. Perhaps its slowly dying. I may have someone come check it out. It sound to me like it's not somthing i can easily address. I have always thought that unless you have some experience hiring a well man is a good idea. My father always hired a well man even though he would never dream of hiring a plumber or electrician. Finding a good one can be a little hard. Ask your neighbors who they use. Get your hair cut in town and ask at the barber shop. Try to get him there when you can be there, too. Try to look over his shoulder and ask questions. You should have a pretty good idea of what questions to ask from your reading here. DId you ever get a resolution. I have had the same problem. Welcome to the forum wlaperch. It may be worth starting your own thread with any or all the info you know about your well and problem. Issues with wells may sound similar, but have totally different issues. Include all information you know about your pump/well and any gear attached. Include any troubleshooting so we don't tell you to do something you have already tried.

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We moved to our home 2 years ago. The vinyl fence in the backyard has fallen apart. It is a 3 foot picket fence in a straight line from our house to garage. It consists of two complete sections and a walk gate. The posts seem fine and the short sections next to buildings are fine, but both long sections have missing and loose pickets. The gate fell completely apart and is gone. We need a secure fence, safe for small children, and do not have unlimited funds for repair. What would be our least expensive option? My husband is disabled and can not install new posts by himself. We found pre built sections that would fit. Is it possible to remove entire sections and replace them? Also, the walk gate opening is 50 inches. Would we need to find a 50 inch gate or a 48 inch gate to allow space for hardware? Is it possible to find a gate that is 3 feet tall and the correct width? I don't know much about vinyl fencing but hopefully our fence guy will have time to chime in later Can the fence be repaired? More than likely the prebuilt sections can be installed to the existing posts. Pics might help us better understand what you are dealing with - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html Look for a local fence supply house. I doubt you'll find what you want, in Home Depot. Sections gates exist. It depends on how old the style is. It might not be a perfect match. If you could post some pictures, that would help. We are more concerned about safety than matching, but I think that if it looked bad it would bother us and we would replace the entire thing later, so I am glad that you mentioned it. Would any brand be able to be installed on any post? Are the posts supposed to be hollow inside, and if so, how do screws attach and hold? Thank you for the response about the chain stores. We are considering a complete replacement. Are other kinds of fencing less expensive or easier to install? My husband is not able to dig for post installation. Would a hole needed for an aluminum post be easier? We will try to send pics this afternoon. Usually, on vinyl fences, the sections slip into slots on the posts. Yes, they are hollow. The gate posts may have cement, in them. There is one slot on the top one on the bottom. Take a look at it. However, most likely the posts are set in cement, they may not have enough give to slide the new section, into the slots. Then you may need brackets with screws. Stockade fences (wood) are easier, in the sense that the posts are not set, in cement. They also cost less. Digging the hole is basically the same for all posts. Vinyl posts have to be a little wider but the depth is the same which is to the frost line. In OH, it's at least 3 feet.

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tire size / compatibility

My sister is in need of 4 new tires and currently has P255/65 R16 tires on her Pathfinder. I have a brand new L225/75 R16 tire from my old Rodeo that never touched the road. If I give her this tire, and she bought 3 matching ones...would it be ok to use this new size on her ride? Tire size Calculator Interesting site. Here are my numbers: Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 255/65-16 6.5in 14.5in 29.1in 91.3in 694 0.0% 225/75-16 6.6in 14.6in 29.3in 92.0in 689 0.8% Now, aside from a 0.5mph difference in speed, would the new tires fit the rims? Would it be a safe swap? I don't see why they wouldnt., but I'm no tire expert either. I would try calling someone at tirerack.com make sure this shortcut isn't going to cost you more money for 3 tires, than you would spend for 4 tires anyway. A lot will depend on the type and width of the rims on the car. You will definately have a much narrower tire. How old is that spare anyway. It's likely too aged anyway and probably couldn't be matched exactly. The total life expectancy of a tire is around 48 months. That's when most tire warranties expire. She could probably make a much better deal on a set of 4 of something else.

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I'm trying to hookup a honeywell w8665e wireless thermostat receiver module to a taco sr502 relay for a heat application. I'm really unclear on how it should be wired. I'm thinking that the zone 1 thermostat on the sr502 should wire to W zone 1 and C on the w8665e, and that I should wire R on the w8665e to the 24VAC teminal on the sr502. Taco doesn't really seem to have any docs that show use the 24VAC terminals of the sr502, they just say it can support 24VAC in or out. I'm not sure if the sr502 can power the w8665e or if I need an external 24VAC transformer. - Mac Nobody? I've contacted Taco and honeywell both - no answers yet... - Mac I am not real familar with that thermostat but looking at the wiring digrams it looks like you need a relay between the transm9itter and Taco control. You can use the SR50X 24v power supply for the isolation relays and the transmitter. I'm guessing that I need the relay because both the sr502 and the w8665e both put 24vac onto the thermostat connections. Is that right? made it work - just the sr503 and the w8665e, no other transformers or relays. I'll put the details in the next post... - Mac I hooked my w8665e to zone 1 of the TACO sr502, and assigned my t8665a to zone 1 of the w8665e. Leave all the w8665E dip switches off until everything is wired up. SR502 COM connects to w8665e C SR502 24VAC connects to w8665e R Next are the actual thermostat connections. I'm designating right from left because if I flipped the connections on mine, the circulator came on and stayed on. SR502 TT (left) connects to w8665e W (zone 1) SR502 TT (right) connects to w8665e RZ (any RZ works) Get your actual T8665A thermostat ready to go. Turn on the W8665E dip switch for zone 1. The red light for zone one flashes. Turn on the fan on the T8665A. The w8665E finds it and assigns it to zone 1. The green light on the w8665e flashes, then all the lights go out. When the W8665e is idle, waiting for the t8665a to tell it to do something, none of it's lights are lit, so there is no indication that it's powered up at all. - Mac [edit: I think I misunderstood what Mac was saying when I wrote this... see revised drawing and post below] Mac, I don't think that's right ... You should have no wires from the 8665 going to the TT on the 502 panel ... The TT terminals on the 502 should go ONLY to the boiler, where the thermostat would connect. The way you've got it connected you are running the risk of burning out the transformer in the 502 and/or the boiler aquastat. Which aquastat is on your boiler ? You've got the C to C correct. The R to R is also somewhat correct... I say 'somewhat' because: Technically, the ZONE inputs on the 502 contain an R and a W terminal, although they may not be labeled such. Do you have a voltmeter ? Set it to measure 24VAC. Put one lead on the C terminal. With nothing connected to the ZONE inputs, measure each ZONE terminal. Apply power to the 502. You will find 24VAC on one each of the ZONE terminals, and ZERO volts on the other. The one that you find ZERO volts on is your W terminal, and that's the one that should connect to the W on the 8665 . You can connect the R from the 8665 to EITHER the R terminal on the 24VAC power terminals on the 502 OR any one of the R terminals on the ZONEs ... I can't imagine how the way you have it connected is working at all ... other than perhaps bypassing the 502 and backfeeding the aquastat. In any case, it's wrong, and you should correct it. Where's Jay11 when ya need him ? He's the expert on those t'stats ... ohhh JAY! where are you ? I believe this is how it should and may be wired: Does this look right to the rest of you gurus ? NJ, I agree with what you have drawn up on there. Did you draw that out? YOu did a good job... How did you do it? Photoshop ... use the tool in Adobe to copy image to clipboard. Paste as new selection. Then, the eraser tool to take out what you don't need, and the draw line tool to add the connections... Oh, and the text tool to add annotations where needed. goes pretty quick once you get the motions down. Thanks for checking this out! I wanted to be sure... Ok, Cool.. I have to reload some software on my computer.. The hard drive crashed!! I agree with NJ Trooper. I too think there is a risk of burning out a transformer (probably the aquastat's) as it is wired. I just looked at Mac's last message again and I don't think I understood what he was trying to describe ... At first I thought that the terminals he was referring to as the SR502 TT terminals were the output to the boiler ... I'm pretty sure he was referring to the ZONE INPUTS now. I think he meant that he connected W on the 8665 to the left hand ZONE IN terminal which must be the 'W' terminal on the SR502 (I edited my schematic to reflect change). However, the wire from RZ to the 'right hand TT' (or ZONE IN) terminal is a redundant connection and not needed, but won't harm anything. In the 8665, the RZs are all internally jumpered to the R. In the 502, the 'right hand TT' terminals must all be 24VAC, or R, and this would explain why the circs ran when the wiring was reversed. I'm revising and re-uploading my drawing... so, Mac, if you come bac, I think my drawing shows the way that you have it wired, (with the exception of the extra wires from RZ to 'right hand TT' which I've left off my drawing), yes ? I dont know if the wiring is the same (or similar) for the HW W8665e compared to the Taco ZV406. But the terminals on the ZV 406 for the zone valves cannot be used for the TT terminals on the SR 502. They provide power to the zone valves. I have a ZV 406 wired to a SR 503. Wired this way allows the zone valves to close when there is a priority call. http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u...trolwiring.jpg (Edit) Nevermind. For some reason I was thinking that the W8665e was a zone valve controller. Yes this is what I did - except I have the redundant right hand TT to RZ in there. I was unaware that it was not needed. Thanks a really nice schematic you made! Thanks for the help. - Mac Originally Posted by NJ Trooper I believe this is how it should and may be wired:

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I have a teak shelf that has been stripped and sanded and is ready for staining. I'd like to stain the piece fairly dark. I've tried Watco Danish Oil in dark walnut and a Minwax antique walnut stain. Both products didn't seem to make the wood much darker. I'd really like to bring a new life to this old furniture. Any suggestions? if you want to make the stain take darker you can always bust the grain with 50/50 denatured alcohol and water. It may look fuzzy but it will make it take dark. I'm not sure if I want that direction, and make the piece fuzzy. If I choose to finish the piece, as is, is Danish oil the best option? After the piece is oiled, can I apply a polyurethan finish coat? I'd like to use a product that is a available in a matte sheen. Any product recommendations? (It doesn't appear that minwax has any such product.) Or, is painting an option? And if so, does it need to be an oil based paint? Thanks! bclacquer- I went ahead and busted the grain with 50/50 water denatured alcohol. I let it dry overnight and applied danish oil (dark walnut). It worked great...and it doesn't even look fuzzy. Thanks for the advice! Wish I would have tried it earlier instead of pondering these other options. you're welcome. I am glad it doesn't look fuzzy, it it hard to tell if that will happen because it depends on the wood and the stain. Keep in mind, this trick on maple or birch may cause excessive blotching due to the pores of the wood.

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Help! I have loosened the retaining cap on the diverter valve and I cannot get the teflon (spindel?) out. The mixture/temperature control valve is made by symmons and is a model A. It was leaking and needs to be replaced. Any ideas? Thanks I have a bigger problem... I cannot even get the retaining cap out. Want to share get the retaining cap out? I heard from home depot that the diverter can be pulled out by using a pair of needle nose plier. The trick to getting the retaining cap out is to first turn the spindle to the left, counter clockwise. If the spindle is bottomed out, (completely closed) the cap wont unscrew. Symmons instructions for removing the cap warn that the spindle must be opened halfway before attempting to remove the cap or damge to the cap and or spindle may result. Good luck. P.S. I had the same problem with seat replacement. Finally gave up and live with drip. Not sure which models you have, here is some (hopefully) useful info from the manfacturer. Always check the man.'s site for info, some have good info, some don't. http://www.symmons.com/Customer-Serv...e-Library.aspx search for temptrol, should get about 50 different items, with a few different drawings for each. My experience after repair for water not hot enough is this: Use this for reference: Symmons Temptrol Product Guide | Hat Creek Outfit 1. Back out scalding set screw which will give more turn radius (T-34) - easily accessible and easy to do 2. If that does not help, remove the spindle by opening the valve handle, taking off knob, unscrewing T-11 all the way out, and removing the spindle assembly (TA-10) This may be full of debris (minerals etc) and can be cleaned with vinegar 3. Reinstall all parts and try again 4. If you make the mistake and forget to open the handle before removing T-11, you will have to forceably remove the spindle and use fine grit sand paper on the brass barrel of the spindle to smooth and reduce the radius a bit (been there done that after spacing out one day) 5. Worst case if all above does not work should be having to buy a new spindle at Loews or Home Depot for about $35.00 USD 6. While disassembled you may want to replace some O-Rings and washers which come in a assorted package from your plumbing supply store for about $5.00 USD (just bought yesterday) Good luck all To remove the diverter valve, center it, unscrew and remove the bronze cap. Then use a seal removal tool. The best one for this job will look like an ice pick or a long, thin awl. I used one made by Mac Tools. The sharp tip of this ice pick is bent sharply back and the tool is made from high modulus steel. First pick out the plastic washer or puck you first encounter. The rest of the valve is just high molecular weight (tough) plastic. It will be stuck in there pretty good due to hard water scale build up. Experiment with sticking the seal removal tool down the hole in the middle of the valve, set the sharp tip into the plastic so it bites hard and use leverage to prize out the valve like you were removing a stubborn seal. It may take several tries and a good amount of mother's wit to get the hang of it but it will come out. Clean out the hole and apply plumbers grease to the new valve before pushing it in. As an aside, you can buy the modern and more attractive Symmons Allura model and strip out all the new parts and install them in the cast main body of the old Symmons Temptrol Model A that is still in the wall. This way you avoid paying a plumber and a drywaller $1500 to tear out the wall and sweat the fittings. Everything swaps out just fine. The new trim fits perfectly. You will need special tools 34A and 34B (something like that) to remove and swap out the hot seal and cold seal from the new unit for the diverter valve or the unit will drip. I bought the two tools for eleven bucks and change online at Home Depot. Is this the lever that diverts the water to shower? Also, does the assembly have stop valves behind the escutcheon plate.

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I am looking to replace my old Lindsay water softener and iron filter. I just got a quote for the ECR 3500-R30 with an iron filter, installed, for $5800 (incl tax). I am trying to comparison shop, but the prices for the ECR3500 seem to be a bit elusive. Can anyone on DIY give me a sanity check on this? To me, the price seems a bit too much - $6K for a water softener and iron filter seem out of whack. The company that gave me the quote is offering no money down for 6 months. Can anyone give me some pricing info on a comparible softener too? I am willing to install - in fact, this same company that installed the softener years ago installed the softner first and then the iron filter. When we bought the house (not original owners), I had to replumb the filters so that the softener would stop getting fouled with iron. My first question is why do you feel you need an iron filter? Of course with the Lindsay softener that is probably the case. What made you decide to buy the Lindsay in the first place? Or was it there when you got the house? In nearly all cases that I come across, a separate iron filter is not needed if the softener is properly set up and sized. I am not sure how you could really expect a ballpark figure without providing water test results. Is your iron ferrous or ferric or both? What is your pH? Hardness? TDS? What kind of pump do you have? What service guarantee and parts warranty was offered? What was the design and media of the iron filter quoted? Birm? Greensand? KDF? Aeration? Chlorination? There are many ways to remove iron from well water. Details, details, details, please. Andy Christensen, CWS-II Andy - see responses: Q:My first question is why do you feel you need an iron filter? A:The salesman that I talked to tested my water an found both ferrous and ferric iron. One of my complaints was that when I turn on a facet that has been sitting (not turned on for an hour or so), the water smells foul. 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I have been working on a tecumseh lawnmower with a LEV120 engine and i cannot get the flywheel off of it. I want to remove the flywheel so that i can look at the valve tappets and the crankshaft, i have removed flywheels on briggs and other engines but this one just wont come off. It does not have threaded holes so i am not using a puller, i am using a screwdriver and a mallet to get it off. I put the screwdriver underneath the flywheel and pull up while tapping the shaft with the mallet, and the nut is on flush a the top of the shaft by the way, and it just wont budge. The flywheel key does not appear to be sheared and i have sprayed PB blaster down the keyway to try and loosen it up. I do not have a knocker for it and i didn't think that i would need one because i am doing the same thing now that i would do with the knocker. Any helpful hints on this one? Here is a picture of it. Tap those three holes and use a puller like this. fly wheel puller - Bing Images Some heat on the flywheel may help. Have a helper hold the flywheel with two hands on opposite sides and lifting. Hit the shaft with a hammer. When i do this should i use a real hammer or could i use a rubber mallet to lessen the chance of cracking the shaft. Should i still thread the nut on the end of the shaft. Leave the nut on the shaft and unscrew the nut just enough so that you will hit the nut instead of the end of the shaft. Another option is to use a large center punch on the center of the end of the shaft. The idea is to not damage the threads on the shaft when you hit it with the hammer. Use a real hammer. The shaft is steel. will that hurt the threads on the nut, if so should i use a different nut that i don't need. The top side of the nut should be flush with the top end of the shaft. You should be using a real gear puller to safely pull it off with out damaging it. The gear puller can be bout at Sears or Harbor Freight tools. It's description is a threaded rod with a nut on 1 end and a cone shaped floating piece of metal on the other end. It also has 3 legs that go over the edge of the gear or in your case a flywheel. The cone shaped end sits in the indent on the end of your lawnmower's main shaft. Just tighten the nut of the puller with a wrench and the flywheel will just pop off the shaft with no strain on your part. The Harbor freight sells a 4 Piece Three-Jaw Puller Set for about $27.00. Use this link to view and order it; 4 Piece Three-Jaw Puller Set

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Question on Trane XV95 2 stage furnace

Hi, I am new here and have a question. Recently had a Trane XV95 2 stage furnace installed. Had our first cold snap this week so this is the first it's kicked on. I remember the installer saying with this model it is best to leave the fan in continuous ON position, opposed to AUTO. I tried this yesterday for the first time, and when I came home the house felt very cold. Seems like all the fan was doing was blowing cold air around all day. So I put the fan back on AUTO and let it kick on and off through the night. I am curious to hear if others who have this model leave the fan running all the time and what is the advantage/disadvantage. I have a very small 4 room house. Thanks. There are quite a few variables that come into play as to whether or not continuous air circulation is a good idea. If you are using a setback thermostat (or you manually set back the thermostat) or if you have any ductwork in a non-heated space then continuous air circulation is probably not going to be a good idea. With a two stage furnace, the blower runs as a slower (and quieter) speed while its on first stage, then switches to a higher speed if and when the furnace goes to second stage. When you leave the fan in the continuously on position, it always runs in high speed, which is noiser and since there is more airflow, the air coming out the vents is cooler when the furnace is firing on first stage. I'd recommend leaving the ran in the auto position and letting the furnace pick the appropriate fan speed for the stage it is operating in. I have a two stage furnace myself, and I always leave it in the auto position, as the fan operation in the slower first stage is quieter and more economical. I have my fan on all the time in the winter, no issues with the cold air. the air flow is soft, I don't have the drafting feeling. Our furnace is 6 years old, and the temp are even all over the house. Our house is a split level as well. Also with the fan on, the air is being going though our 4 media filter. If you are getting the cold feeling, you may have a pipe tied into your return and it's drawing in outside air. Do you have this? Thanks to everyone who answered. I appreciate the information. As far as having a pipe tied in to my return drawng outside air, I honestly don't know. Will have to find out. Thanks again. Go around your house, look for a hood larger than a dryer/exhaust fan good. Most of the time, it's a 6 pipe. In older homes it was a common thing back in the days. They don't do it much anymore now days, it's either air to air exchanger, or pipe is dumped next to the furnace/water heater. Jay, I do not have such a pipe. Only pipes coming out of my house are the two associated with this new furnace. The original chimney in this house was removed years ago. Old furnace was vented out of the side of the cellar too. This is a very old house, over 100 yrs. Not air tight. I am sure cold air is getting in through cracks and crevices. We tried to seal as much as we could. Thanks for the info And it being that old, you may not have much if any insulation in the walls, so the cold air is being stirred up more when the fan is ON. Also, do you have A/C? If so, maybe the blower is set too high. My system, I have 2 ton A/C so that moves 800 cfm of air, so the blower runs 50% of the A/C speed setting. (400CFM) of air, just enough to move around, but not noticed a draft. No, No AC. No insulation in the walls plus the age of the home is why it is always drafty. Being that you don't have A/C, we can drop the blower speed down, and see what happens. What's the full model # on your furnace? TUH2B08049V3VAC - (thanks) Ok, Dip switch settings. 1-on 2-on 3-off 4-off 5-on 6-on 7-on 8-off Did the dealer put on a two stage t-stat on this furnace? Yes, two stage t-stat was installed. Double check to make sure there's a wire alone to W1 and W2, no jumper between the two.

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pressure tank size

When replacing your well's pressure tank, is bigger better? If you would replace the tank with say the next larger size you would get a larger drawdown number and maybe the pump would run less often. Is that correct or is there a drawback to having too large a tank? Thanks The rule of thumb for sizing a tank is this: One gallon of drawdown for each gallon of pump capacity. This ensures that the pump motor will be able to run the recommended length of time each time it cycles. Recommendations are 1 minute for pumps up to 1 hp, and 1-2minutes for larger pump motors. This gives the motor windings a chance to cool off after starting. There's nothing wrong with up sizing a pressure tank a size or two. You just don't want a 8 gpm pump trying to fill a 500 gallon pressure tank. Ron What is your opinion of Well-Mate tanks? I have a Well-X-Trol tank now. I was going to replace my tank with the same kind but I can get a really good deal on a well mate. Any preference on steel vs fiberglass? Thanks for the info i have found that any fiberglass tank will leak around the top where the schrader valve is at. i install steel tanks. i usually use the flexcon brand, but in my opinion, anything is better than fiberglass. it is possible to have a tank that is entirely too big. if you had a 10 gpm pump tring to fill a 119 gallon tank while taking a shower, the pump would never be able to catch up. and just as a side note, the largest bladder type of pressure tank available is 119 gallons. you can special order larger, but the cost is unbelievable. the reason is DOT will not allow any pre-charged tank to be larger than 120 gallons, unless special permits are bought, and the tank goes through rigirous inspection. I agree on the fiberglass issue. Where I'm from (desert in the southwest) the fiberglass deteriorates. I personally like the Goulds/A.O. Smith tanks. Ron I remember reading in a previous post about tank diameters. Somebody said if you had 2 tanks that held about the same gallons but one was taller with smaller diameter and the other was shorter but larger diameter you should go with the larger diameter-something about expansion. Comments? A larger tank cost much more and takes up space. Amtrol makes many tanks but I prefer their Well-X-Trol tanks. Pumps are designed to run not to cycle. Each cycle of a pump is like putting mileage on a car. Instead of installing a larger tank, check into a Cycle Stop Valve. A CSV will save your pump, pressure switch, pressure gauge, tank bladder and save on electricity. Ask your local driller, pump man, plumber, water system supplier or look up www.cyclestopvalves.com or http://www.pumpsandtanks.com/. Don't go to Lowes or Home Depot because they don't know about CSV's. You're wife will love a CSV as it will give you constant pressure while supplying a constant pressure!

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Pilot Light problem on a Carrier Gas furnace

[SIZE=3]I have a carrier Gas Furnace that has a problem with the pilot light. I will try to describe the problem. It has an automatic pilot igniter. Sometime the unit will start to light the pilot (High-voltage Clicking) and then stop. Try again and stop. Sometime it will light the pilot and after maybe 30s to 1min. it turns off. Now here is the strange part! If I push on the connector on the igniter board it will start back up. Let go of the connector and it turns off. Looked at the board were the connector is soldered to the board and it looked fine. I even re-soldered the connector. I even re-soldered some of the components around the connector. It did not help. At first the board was loose. The screws would not tighten up the board to the mount. I fixed that but it too did not help. After flexing the connector a few times the furnace started working correctly. Restarted the system several times with not problems. This has happen twice now. I though that maybe it was a grounding problem because the board was very loose on the mount. My question is this! Could it still be a grounding problem or should I just replace the Igniter/Lockout Controler?[/SIZE] Are you able to post a picture or at least the module model and make. If this is the one I think it is, that is a common problem. you will probably need to replace the module [SIZE=3]If you mean model and makeof the Igniter/Lockout Control box it is the LH33WZ512A. It is in a gray box and the Model and part number's are printed on a white label. It looks like the ones on Ebay if you do a search for that part number. I hope this is what you needed. Reggie[/SIZE] That module is known to fail. The fact that your furnace uses it means that your system is pretty old....... There are 2 modules out there to choose from. Are there any difference in these 2? 1 is the LW33WZ512A and the other is a ICM296. I'm guessing that the ICM296 is just a newer model. Which would be best? Reggie ICM module is aftermarket. I have had bad luck with ICM spark modules. A big thanks for your time and the information. That wasn't the module I was thinking of, however as hvactech states they also had problems. Appears you have had many years of service before it gave up.

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Old Honeywell to Honeywell RTH2300B Help needed

I'm trying to replace my very old but still working Honeywell thermostat with a new RTH2300B. The existing (old) unit has marking for the five wires but they dont seem to align with the new letters. I'm attaching a picture for reference. The left two wires appear to be labeled TR and when using my 110v tester show as hot. The right three wires are labeled as follows... center red wire is W, next wire going clockwise is the green wire and is labeled B and the last wire on the right has no visible label on the board and is a white wire. The three right wires seem to travel together from the basement and are hooked directly to the boiler, the white wire looks to be not in use. I cant seem to locate where the two hot wires are attached to in the basement, I can trace the wires all the way until about 5 feet from the boiler then they disappear in the basement ceiling. I tried to call Honeywell but without having letter codes they can reference they wouldn't recommend any action and said to call a proff installer. I'm plenty savvy enough to connect it up but cant figure out where to start with matching which wires to which new connection. Do you have any model# on the old stat? You said the left wires are hot.... what voltage did you read there? It almost looks like a old programmable sub base wiring. The left wires were used to power a clock and the right wires were used for a series 20 controller. However, it could be for series 10 also. What we really need to know, so we are not just guessing, is more info about your heating system and what terminals the wires land on inside your heating system. Hmmm, I checked that old thermostat EVERYWHERE and not a model # to be found. Would a picture of the face itself help at all? There is a clock on it though. I cant find my meter but I have a tester that detects between 50-250v and it triggers when hitting the two lines on the left and notta for the center and right wires. I can take a look at where the wires run to in the boiler itself and reply back shortly. yes, pictures are good, find out where they go to the boiler, and get a meter! It appears the red wire on the right goes to R on the boiler and the green wire on the right goes to G on the boiler. Splice from the boiler to the wires run in the home below. Sounds like I should connect the red wire on the right side to the R terminal and the green wire on the right side to the G terminal. So it seems that doesnt work, when I connect the Red to R and the Green to G the boiler starts when I switch the fan into the On position instead of auto. As for voltage, it appears that I get the following: Left White 40 volts Left Red 60 volts Center Red 20 volts Right Green 20 volts Right White 0 volts It also appears at some point my futzing around took out the display on the new thermostat so back to Depot that will go, I plan to get the same model unless there's reason to get a different one. No, that is not what it seems. You have a fan center that is being used to turn on the pump and the boiler, that is why it goes to G. So, on the new thermostat, do NOT use either of the wires on the LEFT side of the old thermostat; wire nut and tape off and stick in wall. Right side of old thermostat wires goes RED to R and Green to W and White is not used How are you testing these wires? Where are you putting the meter leads? I would like you to test with your meter leads on both wires on the left side, I know what voltage you should get on the right side. I recommend a better Honeywell thermostat than RTH2300B. A good thermostat is at least $70.

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New 3 ton Goodman 15 seer heat pump

I did it; I took all my tax money and purchased a 3 ton heat pump for our house. Now come the questions Background: House built in 1975 which had a 1984 Janitrol 4 ton heat pump, worked on so many times the air handler was tapped together. Duct work was pressed fiberglass tube, which was falling apart, you could actually feel the cool air radiating through the walls of the duct. Air handler is mounted in the attic. Current situation: Installed new Goodman 3 ton 15 seer heat pump, and all new supply and return duct. Install was just completed yesterday. I used a highly recommended contractor. The contractor said everything looks good right now but he will be back on Tuesday to inspect the system for duct leaks and to make sure I am satisfied with the work. He says he likes to wait a few days to let things settle down, and let the homeowner have time to develop questions about the system. I of course began snooping around right away looking for problems and here is what I found, but I don’t know if this is normal or he forgot something. The air handler lays horizontal, and looks like it was a multi position unit. At the return side there are 2 sets of condensate line connections, one set at the bottom, that is used, and one set at the top that is not used. When the unit runs I can feel air sucking in through the unused condensate holes at the top. Is this normal, or was something overlooked? At the same time at the supply side I can feel cool air leaking from the sheet metal joints of the air handler itself…should these be taped? My neighbour is trying to tell me the AC guy just set the unit on hi for now to see if the duct work was going to spring any leaks over the weekend…but I doubt that cause it has a variable speed blower, not a hi/lo blower like the old unit. Other than these 2 issues...I like what I see with the install Lower end equipment uses smaller gauge sheet metal so leaks can hapen more often. Door should not be taped because it will have to be replaced every time you open it up. Unit should be squared up and re-gasket. Top drain line should be sealed. Thanks for the info, I will get him to plug extra condesate line locations. After ivestigating the sheet metal leaks further, I found the side acess door was not properly set in position before the screws were tightened. I repositioned it and the air leak is sealed.

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My French Drain - What did I do wrong?

Hello all, As anyone who ever installed a french drain and / or a drywell before knows, it is alot of hard work. After recently finishing the french drain portion of my project, I was excited for rain (and we got plenty in Penna!) Unfortunately, my french drain did not work as expected. I was careful follow all of the information I could find: 8' deep trench, lined with water permeable landscape fabric w/ pipe surrounded by 2 of 3/4 inch washed gravel on all sides. The holes on the pipe are positioned towards the bottom and properly sloped. I overlapped the landscape fabric on top of the gravel (most of the top of the trench therefore has 2 layers of the fabric). I put high-quality topsoil (from bags) on top of the landscape fabric and intend to plant grass. Here's the problem: after the big rain, very little water entered the french drain (I installed a clean-out downstream so I was able to observe this firsthand). Most surprisingly, there were 1 deep puddles right on top of the soil above the french drain! It seems some combination of the landscape fabric and the soil (currently mud) did not allow the water to enter the french drain. Do I need to add some type of aggregate to the soil to make it resist turning into mud? Will this no longer be a problem when grass roots help hold the soil together? I was careful to buy the appropriate landscape fabric - it specifically said it was for drywells and french drains. Again, the problem was that very little water even entered the french drain system (and even puddled above it!). What did I do wrong and what can I do to fix the situation? Thanks for any advice, I'm confused! Not a pro on this but one thing comes to mind. From what I was told, the fabric comes with different properties. Some allows the water to go one way only others allow it to go both. If you have a piece of the fabric, test it to see if it has an up or down position. May be crazy, but that is what I was told. The mud on top would also seem to me to be a problem. I would think it would quickly block the fabric. An open gravel bed would certainly work better for surface water, but not sure what you should do to allow water down to the gravel and pipe below. Bud First, get rid of the two layers of fabric. One is enough. You should have a minimum of topsoil over the fabric. - Just enough to get germination of to get some sod to take. French drains have been used for decades on golf courses (you never see them). They did not even use perforated pipe or fabric on the very old istallations that still work well. The filled the trench with a rock and very coarse sand and just used an inch or two of top soil over the granular fill. Much of the bagged top soil is fluffed up clay and peak mixed with sand. Your could have too much clay or the peak has not absorbed enough water (it takes time) to allow the water to drain around it. Dick 4 corrugated sock pipe with gravel bed under it. I own a water management company. Hi, I read a article about french drains in this sites - encyclopediaofhomeimprovements.com. There you can find complete details about the french drains, from the creation to maintenance. It has been very helpful to me. I hope it may help you too!!!

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Maytag Neptune Dryer Disassembly

My dryer makes loud squealing noise when in operation, I have opened and removed the front panels to access as about 1 month ago I had to replace the coils for the ignitor. I suspect for this issue, I have a bad idler pulley wheel, idler bracket, and or belt. From the front of the Dryer, while the tumbler turns, I can apply pressure to the idler bracket (pushing it back towards the rear of the dryer) which in turn causes the belt to rotate on the forward part of the idler wheel, this minimizes the noise and mostly silences it. Now that I have described the problem, I need some expertise on the following... 1. How do I know whether it's the pulley, bracket, or belt? 2. How do I disasemble the dryer to access this area so that I can replace the parts. 3. Is is worth it, while I have the dryer disassembled to just replace the idler pulley wheel, belt, and bracket. 4. Do i have to remove the drum? Top? back? whats the easiest way? thanks. Hello rmindallaz. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site. Very first important suggestion, in my opinion (IMO) is to make a hand drawn diagram of how that belt loops over and under all pulleys. Very likely to save lots of lost time trying to figure it out during reassembly. Once the cabinets inside is accessed, remove all suspected worn parts. Remember exactly how they are presently installed. Take pictures if need be. Any part that moves or rotates can create noises. Same applies to the drum rollers, slider and/or glider parts the drum rotates on. Which part(s) to replace? As a do it yourself project, best to inspect all parts. Equally so, replace all parts suspected to create noises or appear to be worn. Why? Helps to eliminate doing the job all over again, any time in the near future. With this model and many other brands and models, good idea for the do it yourself person to have a service manual, if obtainable. Check with the local appliances parts store where parts can be obtained. Rear removable panels and front panel removal is all that is needed to gain access. Drum removal will be required. Make note of where the belt rides on the drum and how the drum is supported by the front panel. Front drum location will have the glider/slider pads. Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part. DRYER SERVICE TIP: It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, replacement and or repairs. Dryer help here: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481 Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread. Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician. Personal Safety Reminder: Buckle Up Drive Safely. The Life You Save, May Be Your Own. While the dust cleaning suggested elsewhere is a good idea, before you do that, use your eyes. Look at the bottom of the dryer housing. No doubt you will see a lot of grey-colored dust, but you may also see something else -- perhaps a reddish dust from dried out grease and/or maybe some metal shavings. If you see either of those, above that point is likely where you will find the source of your squeal. FWIW, a common culprit in the more recent Maytag designs is the right hand drum roller. It is just over the source of the heat, so the grease dries out and then -- well -- it squeals as the metal hits metal. If yours is in this shape, do yourself a favor and replace the shaft and the roller, as replacing either without the other is just asking for more trouble down the road. And don't forget to inspect the belt too. They aren't that expensive compared to the aggravation of taking it apart again. Good Luck! MK

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