I own a Whirlpool Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer model #ED5PHAXMQ00. I've had it for 4 years and as of a few days ago, it no longer makes ice. I do not see any ice cubes in the ice maker. I'm not sure if water is flowing to the ice maker, but water does dispense from the water dispenser on the outside of the freezer. I unplugged the entire refrigerator/freezer unit, let it defrost for 24 hours, plugged it back in, let it get back to normal and still no ice--same situation. Motor works well on ice cube dispenser on freezer door, but unit not making ice (ice bucket in door empty and also no ice, water or nothing around the ice making unit) and I checked the plastic water line on the back of freezer (unplugged the plastic tubing fitting) and no air was blocking it. All my food items are nice and cold though. I don't feel or see any water or ice in the freezer at all. I also removed the icemaker assembly unit and the trays around the ejector area were dirty and the lining appears to be peeling off on the tray. Any suggestions as to what parts might be bad? I also noticed today that the water pressure coming out of the water dispenser on the outside of the fridge is very slow. What's it like to have no icemaker and to rely on huge bags of ice from the grocery store? I know icemakers are the most problematic part of a refrigerator/freezer unit but I was wondering how long do you all think a refrigerator/freezer unit last? I ask because I wonder if it's worth it to spend $300 fixing this problem or putting that money towards a new or high quality fancy used unit?
Your fridge probably has a dual water valve on the back of the fridge where the water supply line hooks to. One for dispenser, the other for ice maker. An easy quick check of the icemaker valve would be to swap the 2 leads from each solenoid. In other words, take the leads from one solenoid attach them to the other one vice-versa. That way, when you push in on the water dispenser switch it will send power to the icemaker valve you can see if the icemaker gets water. If it does, icemaker is probably bad. If still no water, valve needs replaced. Don't forget to swap wires back to correct solenoids.
Thanks for your reply. I did your test and the icemaker is getting water, so the icemaker itself is probably bad. I was browsing through my local online classifieds and found an ad for a 6yr old side by side Whirlpool refrigerator with a bad a/c compressor for $50. The ad also states that the icemaker is only 6 months old and that the seller will consider selling the icemaker separately probably for $25. I asked the owner for the model number of the fridge, which is ED2GTQXKQ00 and he said the icemaker model number is 2181913. I went to the repairclinic.com website and plugged in his model number frigde and got a different icemaker assembly part number but the same exact icemaker control module part number than my fridge (whirlpool ED5PHAXMQ00). I looked at pictures of his fridge in the ad and on other websites and the main difference seems to be the icemaker itself. His has a bucket underneath and the icemaker has an arm sensor. His does NOT have an in door ice bucket like mine does. I'm thinking that if the problem with my icemaker isn't the module, do you all think his entire icemaker assembly will work in my unit assuming it also has a flat plug? Can I make this work with my in-door ice bucket or will I have to remove it and use his ice bucket that does underneath the icemaker?
I think you would be better off spending the extra money getting the icemaker that is designed for your fridge. Some mount different use other sensors to control the ice making process. Also, the wiring might not be compatable. Does your fridge have the infra red sensor inside the freezer door?
Thanks for the tip. Yes, my fridge has the infrared sensor in the door.
There should be a tech sheet be hind the kick plate and stuck to the bottom of the fridge. This will give you instruction on test the inferred sensor. Here is a link on test your ice maker. If you require parts here is a place you can get Whirlpool parts.
Tags: whirlpool, refrigerator, freezer, maker, problem, freezer unit, icemaker assembly, model number, refrigerator freezer unit, water dispenser, dispenser outside, freezer door
I have had a cluncking in the front end for a week or so now with my 2002 PT cruiser and I took the car to the shop Friday. The tech. nailed it down to the sway bar bushings. It is the bushings that connect to the frame as he put a big prybar between the frame and sway bar and there is quite a bit of movement from the sway bar within the passenger side bushing. The other bushing seems a lot tighter but there is still knocking on both sides. The end bushings at the wheels appear good. Anyways, they want $79 to replace both bushings ( parts and labor). This seems like a good price to me to not deal with the aggervation. Anyways, if I did want to attempt so I know do it in the future can anyone advise how hard it is to do and the steps to do it. Do you have to take the whole bar off to slide the new bushings on or are they split? Thanks for the help.
Happy you found out the issue. It wasn't the links after all. The bushings certainly didn't last long on your vehicle. Sounds like a very fair price considering the bushings are probably worth $30. If you still want to try it and save a few dollars toward your next oil change I found this link that could help, but personally for the reasonable amount of money in labor they want to charge you, and for any unforseen problems you could have in installing the new ones I would let the shop do it for that price. Sway bar bushing
The sway bar bushings are very easy to do as long as the bolts dont break. They usually are rusted and do break often. If you still have a noise these cars have a big issue with control arm bushings and those cost alot more than $95 to fix. Make sure they inspect the lower control arm bushings.
Tags: sway, bushing, control bushings, sway bushings, they want
Hello! Last week the door opener stopped working, I discovered that the plastic gear inside was extremely worn out and shredded apart. I ordered a new kit and plan to replace it when it arrives. My question is though: the door quit working half way up, I pulled the release cable but in order to use it manually I needed to get the trolly out of the middle of the tracks. When I begin putting it back together, do I need to match where the trolly was, or could I position it fully open or closed? Thanks!
It will prob move slightly during the repair anyway. I just fixed my neighbors 2 days ago. It was in the down position when I got it, so I marked the track and put it back as close as I could, he had to just tweak the positions after re-install. The instructions will explain set the thing up. Basically, you just run it in the down direction til it stops, then put the chain and all back on. If you are doing it with the opener still up (just resting on the ladder) it will be easy to hook the door back into the trolley in the closed position then hook up the chain. Btw...the distance from the end of the rail to the front edge of the trolley was 9.5 inches for his, yours would probably be close to that depending on how your arm is set.
So I should just be able to press the button and see which way it spins and when it shuts off it will either be fully up or fully down? I'll look at the instructions as well once the parts arrive (hopefully today!)
Yes...looking down from the top, a clockwise turning cycle will be in the fully down position (based on the limit switch setting). It may still require slight tweaking once hooked up. Did you get the full kit or just the big gear? I always get the full kit since it has all new bushings and such. Here's some reading while you wait for the part. Relacing plastic gear in Lift Master One person put simple instructions for just the big gear if that's what you got. Not sure how good they are since I used the full kit.
I got the full kit, the sales person said it came with all the gears, bushings, and some grease. It was only about 40 including shipping too. I'll take a look at the instructions you posted as well. I watched a video on YouTube and it looked pretty straight forward, my main concern was that it stopped in the middle and I had to move it to still use the door.
$40? That was $13 more than I paid on Amazon w/free shipping, though I see they are up to about $29 from the same supplier now. Did you get it from Sears? Main hint...as you disassemble it, take pics or make drawings and keep all the parts in order. It may be kind of tough to take the gears off the shaft, the grease hardens to almost a varnish. Careful prying with a screwdriver will ease it off. Clean the shaft with acetone or similar and the new one will go on pretty easy. Make sure everything is seated back in the original positions and the interrupter wheel is fully seated. If you remove the little rotation sensor board per the instructions (I think you HAVE to to get the motor out) be careful with the little tabs that hold it in place, if you snap one off you'll have a bigger issue. Took me about 45 min or so but I had the owner as a second pair of hands and the whole unit down and on my workbench.
The same thing happened to me and I took a picture of my Sears lift as well. I will provide a picture for all that are curious. I need to replace mine
Yea I got it direct from sears, only took about 3 days to get here. It started by me calling to see if they had one in a store in the area but they didn't so I just said ill get it shipped in. Got her all done, worked out great. I just hit the button let it return to the closed position, then threw the chain on and adjusted it till it opened and closed right. I think the chain was in a different position before but I don't think it's an issue as I re adjusted it to open and close post repair. Thanks for your help!
Should I just get the replacement gear for $6 or the gear with sprocket kit for $23..?
Do the whole kit. And make sure the door is operating correctly, badly adjusted/damaged doors and lack of grease it what causes these to fail.
ive never replaced the worm gear. there is zero need. i do suggest replacing the brash bushing that centers the gear/sprocket just above the small limit gear. if youre worried about limits, vise grip the chain to the t-rail just in front of the carriage.
The worm gear gets a lot of melted crud from the drive gear when it fails. Yes, it is a harder material than the big gear, and you could probably clean it all out, but why buy a kit to get all the bushings, gears, and such, and not use all the parts? The kit I use comes with a new chain drive gear, shaft and big gear (sprocket?) pre-assembled. As well as all bushings, wave washers, pins, thrust washers, etc, etc. Sure...don't need the stuff included for a belt drive...but I'll use everything possible that I paid for. Just my opinion......
True but you can just buy the gear (pack of 2) for $6 vs the kit with 1 gear for $20+ Chamberlain Sears Craftsman Liftmaster 41A2817 Gear Kit - Amazon.com OR Chamberlain LiftMaster Sears Craftsman 41C4220A Gear Sprocket Assembly Kit - Amazon.com OR 2 Pack - Drive Gear for Sears Crafsman Liftmaster Chamberlain Garage Door Openers 1984-Current - Amazon.com
not a fan of the gear only. not only are they hard to do if you havent done them a lot, a key bushing is not being replaced.
Thank you, this is the answer I am looking for.
I replaced the sprocket but I skipped on the worm gear because it looked fine and just needed a cleaning. As soon as I hooked everything back up, with the door down along with the part with the red handle (slid that back to hook it up to the door) I hit the button and it got all jammed up. It torqued the railing for a moment until I could release the pressure. My question is how do I recalibrate or reset the opener so it knows its it's fully up or down and not where it was when the gear finally went?
I tried adjusting my up and down limits but it doesnt seem to change where the trolley stops. The up limit stops about 3/4 up and the down limit slams into the stop, creates slack in the chain and reverses. Has anyone had issues after changing the sprocket with the limits not working?
Tags: replacing, gear, craftsman, garage, door, opener, fully down, just gear, worm gear, closed position
I have in-wall pest control tubes installed in my home. Can I service these myself? If so, what procedure should I use, and what pesticide should I use? I do have an air compressor.
DIY residential pest control for termites and woodboring insects is not recommended. Professionals have the proper equipment and chemicals which are not available to DIYers. They offer a warranty. There is no warranty with DIY.
Thanks twelvepole. I was concerned more about household pests, ants, roaches etc.and not termites. The pest control service charges $96 for servicing, is only at the house about 10 minutes and says it should be done at least twice-a-year. This company is the only authorized company in the county who will service the system. There are 12 small plastic tubes, and they inject a fluid pesticide in each and circulate it through tubes installed inside the walls throughout the house Another option is to pay another company $275/year, and they service the wall outlets and dust the attic. Have lived in the country on a ranch for a number of years, took care of the bugs myself and didn't have much of a problem. Got too old to ranch so moved closer to civilization and find most people have the bug people do the job for them. May just go back to doing it that way.
Tubes in the wall is just one more gimmick in the Pc world it has nothing to do with termites I have a friend that recently quit working for the group you speak of. Do it your self and save. The method that worked best for me and netted the fewest call backs was this Treat the outside of your home with a good micro encapsulated or wettable powder formulated insecticide. We used Demand but you can find the equivalent or near at your local DIY store (not the DIY pest control store, they are a rip off) Tempo wettable powder or a product from Lowes called Perimeter Defense should work well. Just make sure that the product says WP or SC or CS after the name, do not use an EC Spray the perimeter up to the level of the window, around each window and doorway and the eaves where the wall joins the roof. Inside use Combat Gel with either Hydramethylnon or Fipronil as the active ingredient Treat kitchens and bathrooms In cabinets and around water sources. The tubes comes with a long needle so inject a small half pea sized glob into cracks where it can not be seen (it looks just like poop when it dries) Dusting attics is no longer recommended mostly because it did little and was a safety concern for workmen who may need to work in the attic plus the chance of a breach in the AC system filling the house with insecticide Around the base of the house use a insecticidal bait not the water activated clay based insecticide granual like Dursban and Diazinon was. We used Niban again Hydramethylono or Fipronil are good choices for AIs I would have charged you about $100 to do that every three months But to answer your question. No you cannot treat the tubes yourself unless you can get a hold of their equipment
There are two things to consider when we are talking tubes in the wall; 1) there is no cure all or end all pest control technique, tool, or material legally available any longer. We simply have many tools to work with, tubes in the wall being one of them; 2) be cautious that if you or another pest control company decides to service the tubes that you are not voiding any warranties which may exist. Generally speaking the tubes are a good tool under certain circumstances. I live in Southern California and our number one pest is the Argentine ant. Under certain conditions you can not only keep the ants out by injecting the tubes but also trap them in, creating more of a problem. Good sanitation and perimeter spraying along with making sure that trees and shrubs are kept trimmed off the house and properly cared for to avoid aphids and other insects can go along way. Baits are probably the best indoor approach.
I have an in-wall system also. A Truly Nolen rep said they promoted the system back when the house was built (1990s), but found out it is not effective. I have never used a pest control company before, but the prices he quoted me were outrageous! I like ocoee's suggestions. TN charges the same, though ($$$). How much do those insecticides you describe cost to cover a 1600 sq ft, single story home? The TN rep also mentioned about putting boric acid in the attic. After reading your post, I don't think that would be a good idea. Is the Ortho Home Defense Spray available everywhere ineffective?
I don't think it is If I remember correctly it is an EC product which is fairly obsolete Home Depot sales, or used to, Tempo WP which is what I used for years with great success. Demand is a better product but I don't know if it available OTC or what the civilian equivalent is I will tell you this Just about every product used by PC companies can be bought at Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart What you pay for is know how, and I don't see much of that with the companies anymore They have opted for revenue generating cookie cutter treatments instead of developing the knowledge of their techs. In Central Florida the only company doing the tubes legally is Home Defense which is owned by Centex Homes A one time treatment with Boric Acid would not be harmful and would last indefinitely in a dry attic. The problems arose when we started selling once a year attic treatments as a way of justifying our prices, A normal attic would take about 6ozs of BA when workers get up in an attic that has been treated with pounds of Tri Di and Drione desiccants over the years and has to work in that environment for a coupe of hours it is unhealthy Boric Acid is one of the active ingredients in some laundry detergents and a man my size would have to ingest over two pounds of it to get a serious stomach ache What was the price that Truly quoted you?
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to visit my local Walmart first to see if they have anything similar to Tempo WP. They're always cheaper than HD Lowes for the same product. I live in S. FL about 20 miles from the ocean. It isn't that humid here. Is a one time boric acid treatment still enough? TN wanted $400/yr which included 4 visits. Thanks again!
Truly's price comes out about right at $33 per month And as I said in my PM I have a tremendous amount of respect for Truly, he's from the old school when we actually like our jobs and customers His son Scott is one of if not the most knowledgeable people I have ever met in the field When I first started in PC we charged about $20 when you figure for inflation that's not too bad, or it was way back then The active ingredient in Tempo is Cyflutrin which is a synthetic pyrethroid. Most have Cy or Thrin somewhere in their names Just make sure that it is a WP, CS, or SC formulation. Those letters will be at the end of the trade name, Baythroid, Baythroid H, Attatox, Contur, Laser, Responsar, Solfac, Tempo are trades name products containing cyfluthrin Charge, Excaliber, Grenade, Hallmark, Icon, Karate, Matador, are trade names for product containing lambda cyhalothrin the active in Demand Lowes used to have a prodcut called Perimeter Defense that I believe also contained lambda cyhalothrin and cost about $50 The Demand that we used was $54 per pint There are also new and better products out now like Termidor and Phantom that I am not familiar with because I am falling out of the loop due to the incredible increase in PC technology If you are ever up in the central Fl area give me a shout I still have a quite an inventory left.
The advice I give is based on the experience I have had in central Fl I was and still am amazed at the difference just fifty miles in either direction makes regarding the pest that you will deal with I worked Orlando for ten years and did maybe ten carpenter ant jobs in that time I transfered to Merritt island thinking that I knew everything and found that I was as lost as a newby We did ten carpenter ant jobs by lunch time every day. I tend to forget that sometimes.
Originally Posted by Leroy 1 I have in-wall pest control tubes installed in my home. Can I service these myself? If so, what procedure should I use, and what pesticide should I use? I do have an air compressor. your best bet is to forget that you have the tubes and use REAL pesticide. the tubes in the wall was a gimmick to produce more money and these are some reasons why.. 1. there are not any bugs that hang out or live behind the wall. (bugs come thru the doors, windows, and cracks and hang out around pipes and base boards-where the tubes are not) 2. the idea that you dont have to smell the chemical once a month helped sell the product (not all chemicals have odor) 3. you dont have to let pest techs come into to treat the home nor do you have to be at home to be serviced (how do you know that they were really there or if they truly sprayed the amount they say?) 4. the Whitmire chemicals that they use for these systems are only available to certified pest techs and are nothing but aerosol sprays with little to no difference from what you buy in the store with little to no residual. They can charge you more for the chemicals that are not available to the public, yet they pay less than what what they do for real and good old fashion style chemicals. Dont take my word for it, I have only been in the industry for 17 years and have seen every scam on the market. The public has a right to know. Dont get pest control from anyone other than ones using the original BG sprayer unit. Make them mix the chemical right in front of you. The amount of chemical to ad to water should be the the full catch at the top of the plastic container holding the pesticide. DIY's, you dont get the quality chemical anywhere else than what a certified tech has. However, with that said, what you do get will do ok as long as you spray it more often. But, the best form of pest control is to keep your place clean and sink empty, all food sources properly put away, leave no standing water, trash can covered.
Tags: pest, control, pest control, pest control, have in-wall, sure that, tubes installed, tubes wall, active ingredient, boric acid, Boric Acid
I ran across a website that sold me rubber molds to make stone veneer. I was suprised that they sold me less than 100sqft of molds. I tried to buy from another company and needed to buy at least 100sqft of molds to get started. I just wanted to make enough stone to complete my 2200sqft project so I got a 20sqft package of rubber molds. I was going to pay $7 a sqft for Cultured Stone but after doing the numbers...hmmm...I couldn't afford it. Making my own stone cost me roughly $1.13 cents sqft including labor. I used a high performance concrete mix in order to get 4 castings a day out of my molds, as opposed to the standard 1 time a day. That gave me 80sqft of stone per day so I was able to finish in about 1 1/2 months. I actually had to make around 2230sqft of stone since some of the stone were undesireable due to air-holes...but I fixed that. Real World Bottom Line: 2200sqft job using Cultured Stone @ roughly $7sqft would have cost me $15400.00. 2200sqft job making my own stone @ $1.13sqft costs me $500 for the molds and another $2486 for materials/misc. items. I spent roughly $3000 to make my own stone veneer and saved roughly $12400.00. I sent a picture of the finished project to the folks that sold me the molds so it might be posted on their site under the Parson Residence. If someone else has expirience making stone veneer or any tips or tricks you can pass on...Im all ears cause Im getting ready for another project.
A few questions: What kind of a high performance mix? - high early cement? accellerator? What kind of aggregate did you use? All normal heavyweight or did you use some lightweight? Did you use any pigment to get different colors? If so, what kind of pigment - powdered iron oxide, liquid iron oxide, organic, other? Spray mlds with pigment before filling? Did you use anything to make the concrete air entrained? Looking forwar to seeing the completed photos. Right now the selection of patterns and colors available and will be until Owens and others can get more plants built. The vinyl siding is so boring and temporary looking, it has caused a boom the cultured stone. Dick
Stone of DIY quality sells for a couple of bucks a foot around here, and Eldorado goes for 5, with Cultured Stone being the best and most expensive at 5-7$. Considering the labor of mixing small batches of concrete and attempting to get a decent range of color and quality, I wouldn't think it is worth it. Let's do it step by step: 1. Apply color slurry to mold 2. Mix concrete 3. Pour concrete 4. Clean mixer and slurry tools 5. Wait 2-4 hours 6. Pop and stack stone 7. Clean and prep molds Return to step one, 4 times a day for 28 days, 10+ hours a day. Your labor must be cheaper than mine.
Im aware of the low cost alternatives to Cultured Stone, Eldorado Stone, etc, that can be purchased for as low as $3sqft. As you know, the quality is horrible and the colors are just as bad (At least around here). Being able to make stone for myself provided me with the option to spend more money on ingredients than a manufacturer would since I was not trying to mass produce at a product at a cheap price. I was able to customize my colors and also make what I needed and be able to make more when I needed too. I wanted to make something that would put the most expensive stone veneer to shame and thats what I did. Even if I purchased stone @$3sqft, I would have still payed roughly 2.5x more than doing it myself. I'm not rich so saving a few thousand dollars and producing a great looking customized product is very significant for me. I used a High Performance Cement - Grey - that was half of my cementatious material. The other half was a Type 2 Portland and a Natural Pozzolan which prevents effloresence and reduces how much water I need to use. My mix came out to 7000+ PSI @ 28days...way over the code requirments. I tried to get pumice as a lightweight aggregate but couldn't get it in small quantities. So I opted to use Masonry Sand and Pea Gravel as my aggregate. The weight wasn't that much different after the stones cured, were still within building code and went up fine. To color my stones I purchased powdered iron oxide pigment from the mold company. I decided to use an integral color so that my stones wouldn't reveal the unatural interior when it was chipped or cut. I alternated my integral colors so that I would be able to get accent colors from the leftover residue of the previous color. That made the stones look great with nice accent colors as well as cut down on having to clean the molds. 2 people can do it with no problem at all. 1 person can do it with a little hard work. That includes the following: 1. Laying out the molds: 5minutes 2. Spraying Mold Release: 2Minutes 3. Making Concrete Mix (While the other guy is laying and releasing the molds) 15minutes 4. Pouring the mix into the molds: 10minutes 5. Setting Time for stones: 45minutes 6. Popping and palletizing the stones: 30mintues 7. Start the process again. 8. End of day we cleaned the mixer which took 10mintues. (Properly Calculating your mixes will prevent excessive waste which will cut down on Mixer Cleaning intervals and time) We were able to start the process again every 1.5hours. We could have done more than 4 pours in an 8 hour shift but why rush if you dont have too. I will be working on a marbling technique for the next batch of stone I am working on. These will be used on a fireplace. I'm already guessing that i will spend roughly $1.5 a sqft to achieve the colors I want. Its great to be able to customize this stuff....they told me I would get the stone making bug, I guess thats what I got! Thanks for the responses and am looking forward to more.
I am not familiar with a high perfomance cement, what is the name of that? Type II goes for around 8 bucks a bag, and their mix design calls for a six sack mix, plus the pozzolan and high performance cement. How many SqFt did you get per yard, and what did the pozzolan cost you? Also, if the pop out time was 45 minutes and you only cleaned the mixer at the end of the day, I would hate to see it's condition now. Regardless, even at 80 SqFt per day in 5 hours, my time is still not worth it. I am glad it worked for you, but for someone doing it on weekends and evenings, your time frame would not apply. More like 6 months to produce 2200 SqFt. If you are going to do it, you should buy enough molds to equate to your batch size. That will also help with creating a non repeating pattern.
Thanks for the information! When you say high performance cement, I assume this is a high early strength portland (Type III) based on the setting time. Especially quick since the pozzolanic is a retarder. Alternating color batches works well once you get past the first two batches. You can easily get lightweight aggregate. The type will depend on your location. This could reduce the weight slightly, but also can make the stones easier to lay. In some cases, it can make them more durable. In the east, your pumice would have been white and available from any number of concrete block plants if you talk nice. There are many very good manufactured lighweights with gray to tan colors. The best ones are distributed up and down the Mississippi River from Louisian to Minnesota and across the south. If you have contacts, you may even be able to get manufactured lightweight fines with a round particle shape (uncrushed). In the west you can get many different type of natural lightweight aggregates (pumice, scoria, volcanic cinders, etc.) in a wide range of colors. The colored aggregates can cut your pigments costs and offer some nice natural variations. Dick
Not worth 5 hours a day for roughly 30days to save over $11,000+???? It takes longer than 30 days to get already made Cultured Stone! Actually it can take up to 2-3 months to get your order from the majority of major stone veneer suppliers. Hmmm...make my own stone....or buy it for $11,000+ more and wait forever to get it....hmmm....if I need more Cultured Stone I will also need to wait another 1-3months to get it...hmmm...that could have added up to 4-6months to complete my project...hmmm....not for me! A Do It Yourselfer can appreciate DIY stuff like this. I did this in my spare time and loved doing it and got better results than buying stone. As for the condition of the mixer, since our batches were calculated properly, its just as good as new aside from the standard mixer scratches from mixing course materials like aggregates and sand. All you would need to clean the mixer is to add a 5 gallon bucket worth of water and just let the mixing paddles spin for a couple minutes to clean itself. Im not sure what kind of techniques or concrete mixer you use to mix concrete but my technique is working fine and is cutting down on the need to clean after every batch. I would suggest trying it out first before knocking it. Taking time to calculate your batches will help you a lot. The reason why you have to clean your mixer after every batch is the simple fact that you have too much left over concrete which is a result of not calculating your batches right....simple as that. Anything else can be simply cleaned as mentioned above.
Hello Dick, I used a standard High Performance Cement that was bagged locally. Actually the bagging company gave me High Performance cement in Plaster Bags (Guess they wanted to use them up). Next time I'm down there I will ask them exactly what it is. I was turned onto the high performance cement by that supplier because they have another customer that uses high performance cement to cast fireplace mantels. He thought it would work for me too and it did pretty well. Without adding the pozzolan (Type 33 Natural Pozzolan -Volcanic Ash) to the mix we had problems with the mix setting too fast. Luckily the pozzolan slowed down the setting time and gave us enough time to work with it. I'm going to take your suggestion to contact a block manufucturer for lightweight aggregate...GREAT SUGGESTION...I was at a road block in regards to the lightweight aggregates. THANKS A MILLION!
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DidItMySelf - I was very interested in your claims to have developed a new method to manufacture veneer. That was the reason for my questions to determine the materials and process to overcome the always present mold turn-around problem. Only time and conditions will determine the suitability of the veneer. I don't know if you sell/promote mold kits or did it your self, but you are definitely wandering around in uncharted waters. I say this based on your description on the process, materials used and the supposed properties of the stones. If you made the stones, it is obvious that you were guessing and/or relying on false information or a lack of information. The result is that you have veneer units of questionable value. It is possible that you live in the right climate and got lucky. You certainly have not made units that match the quality of those from a national producer and you may have mislead others to make the same mistakes and theirs may fail because of the process, materials and conditions. It is stange you have never mentioned any standards regarding the materials to be used or the performance of the units themselves. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) is an organization dealing with these of requirements. In fact, almost every product or material made or used follows these standards and methods of testing to insure repeatability. The cement you used is in all likelyhood not permited in most concrete products. You probably bought some sort of adultered cement not meeting any quality standard. The old game of playing with gypsum to give some false properties was a cheap, common way to get cement to set. The downside is the durability. It is a cheap way to quickly get some concrete out the door and sold without regard to future performance. It is not designed to be durable, so I hope you live in a warm dry climate and keep the sprinkler off the wall. Your mold supplier was very negligent in not providing you with better information. Natuaral pozzolans are very touchy or dangerous to work with because the the range of properties. You did not give an exact description or specifications for the pozzolans, but did mention Type 33. By a stretch of immagination this could be referred to ASTM C33, which is an aggregate specification. A product could be referred to in this standard, but that does not necessarily mean it is permitted in your product, especially in the amount you probably had to use to change the setting time. An excess of pozzalans can lead to many problems like long term (not intial) efflorescence and reduced durability. You apparently had to use a large amount to slow the setting of the doctored cement. Both of the above items are the reasons it takes more than a back-yard cook to come up with a good product that will perform well. All of the marketed products are designed for durability and are tested for long periods for freeze/thaw and wetting/drying performance. This is because they are worried about the future and not just one isolated job. This is especially true for masonry products where the cost of installation is so much more than the material cost/savings - They cannot afford failures and problems. DIY is usually an method to save money by using a person's own labor to give a professional job. Re-inventing the wheel and developing different products that lead others to possible failures should be left to private research. Your testing had no bearing on the product quality, was meaningless and probably not accurate. The mention of 7000 psi exceeding the standards has no importance, especially for a veneer. I don't know how you sampled and tested the concrete, but the garden variety concrete cylinder test is ASTM C39, which is a compressive test requiring laboratory curing and sample preparation. The equipment is costly, so it must be done in a laboratory and by trained, certified technicians. I don't think you mentioned that this was done. Typical equipment is a 200,000# to 400,000# testing machine and equipment for the curing and capping of the samples. The strength has no real bearing on the durability, especially with the materials used. There are far more appropriate tests, but they are costly and reflected in the retail cost of stones. I have seen concrete products with a strength of 10,000 psi fail durability tests, while unts with strengths below 3000 psi performed with absolutely no problems. I admire your work and tenacity to get the cost of the stone as low as possible and hope it works for you in your location/climate. I hope it does not lead others to the conclusion that they can do the same without good, proven materials, instructions and processes that are designed for most areas If it is an interior mantle, that is one thing, but the exterior of a home in a wet ot cool climate is a different story. Dick
Concretemasonry I appreciate your input. I'm certainly not a mold maker or a mold salesmen. I just appreciate when a company can actually help other people save money while making a good product. In reality, the company that I purchased the Pozzolan from guided me in mixing at correct ratios which is 3 parts Cement to 1 part Pozzolan. The pozzolan I used is an exact replacement to Lime without the side effects of lime. I'm not sure what your expirience is working with concrete and pozzolans but Im sure you have not used the Pozzolan I am talking about with High Performance Cement...so you are just guessing. Not all Pozzolans are alike and many have different reactions when added to a concrete mix. The reason why I use Volcanic Ash Pozzolan is because that is what the Romans added to cements to build the structures that are still standing today. The pozzolanic reaction is slower than the rest of the reactions which occur during cement hydration, and thus the short-term strength of concrete made with pozzolans may not be as high as concrete made with purely cementitious materials. Hence the reason why it slows down the High Performance Cements setting time. The bottom line is this: Stone Veneer is just that....A VENEER! Not made to do anything other than be a decorative covering on a wall...nothing else. If a DIY'r made stone with even a standard Quikrete Premix Concrete formula, where you just add water, it will still work just fine and be within code. Not sure what the big fuss is about since you can already make your own pavers and other concrete products just by using Quikrete Premixed Concrete or something like it. Honestly, how hard is it to make a concrete mix and pour it into Rubber Molds to make stone veneer? My 8 year old son is able to do that without instructions...just add water and flick the switch on the mixer! Even Cultured Stone and other stones available have a problem with brittle batches and low quality stones. If you dont believe me, go down to a stone yard, dig through the Cultured Stone pallets and see for yourself. People who have worked with Cultured Stone know exactly what I'm talking about.
For most people, quality and durability are important properties and values. You do not make pavers out of Qikrete type products, you only make pieces of concrete or stepping stones. The pre-blended products are very good and are more consistant than what a person can produce. However, they are designed for specific applications. The weights and density of veneer products must be compatible with the surface bonding/attachment methods. Granted, veneer is not a weather barrier, but it must survive (physically and visually) the weather. There is a long list of exterior siding products that did not turn out to be durable and there were many unhappy users and lawsuits, even in temperate climates. This is the reason for the amount of money spent on the research and production on veneeer units. 3:1 cement to pozzolan is too high for any pozzolan if you want real durability. Pozzolans do not do the same thing as lime. Unfortunately, you are confusing Roman mortars with concrete. For your information, I do have some information and background on concrete, concrete units, masonry applications, codes and specifications. I have 40 years experience in manufacturing, design and use of concrete products. I have worked with manufactured/processed and natural pozzolans in the U.S. and Europe (Italy, Greece, Canary Islands). I am active on national and international code and standards committees. Having examined construction and materials in over 35 countries, I have seen many historic and current applications and have written several papers. Italians do not build the way Romans did and do not use the same materials today for good reason. The same applies especially in the northern reaches of the old Roman Empire since the warm climate methods and materials did not fair as well once you got away from the sunny Mediterranian. I am concerned with providing correct information for those that follow the forums. Nothing is worse than spending a great deal of time and effort on a DIY project and find out a year or two later that it is not suitable for the application or location. All too often a project concept is sold as being easy, but local technical support is inadequate or can mislead a person when confronted with different materials and CLIMATES. I am sure the appearance of your veneer is to you liking and hope it will be durable for your climate. You certainly thought out and tailored the production to your needs. I just want any veneer to be produced to be satisfactory for the common severe climates. Dick
Thanks for the honest reply. It still doesn't make what you are saying correct. Honestly, if you make a piece of concrete to code and set it out on the ground and walk on it for years, do you think it will break or get damaged? We walk on concrete all over the place, if its ok on the ground where there is foot traffic and more exposure to the elements it will be ok on a wall with no exposure to foot traffic. Especially if you seal the concrete...you should know that. You do not make pavers out of Quikrete type products, you only make pieces of concrete or stepping stones Grammar don't really gonna matter, you know what I mean. Besides, thats exactly my point...making pieces of concrete that look like stone hence...STONE VENEER...which is a piece of concrete. I tell you what..make a mix using Quikrete and pour it into a plastic cup. Then take it into the nearest Materials Testing Lab and have them test it to see if it is within code for Stone Veneer Units...you will see that if you follow the directions on the bag you will be within code. Shouldn't cost you more than $250 for the testing. They will tell you that as long as the compressive strength is there you are within code and provide you with the certified results to back it up....simple as that. Even if you use the worst possible mix, in the most extreme enviroments, there is always a concrete sealer to solve the problem of damage to concrete due to climate conditions. Like i said, quality and durability are there and is tested and proven. The Compressive strength of concrete is an absolute indicator of good concrete. With good compressive strength you can almost always bet that the concrete was made right and will withstand the elements. Besides...take a look at the stone veneer being sold by major manufacturers...its usually crap and always has primary efflouresence. I dont see you complaining about that....hmmm. The Pozzolan supplier I was and am working with has created concrete mixes for companies that have won international awards for its the properties that this type of Pozzolan added to the concrete mix. I think I will take their advice on what ratios to mix since it is there product and they know what it consists of, inside and out. Until you actually work with this specific pozzolan product you cannot pass judgement. Like I said before...not all pozzolans are the same and you should know that, being a person of considerable concrete knowledge that you are. You are also wrong about the Pozzolan not replacing lime. As a matter of fact there are a few stucco and masonry companies that use this type of natural Pozzolan to do just that...replace the lime. This is about making stone veneer which as you honestly must know is extremely simple to do....dont believe me, TRY IT! Go do a yahoo search for Stone Veneer Molds and pick any company that is selling stone veneer molds. Cast some stones, take them in to be tested and then let me know what you think!
Sir, I think you are misguided. Concretemasonry has lent his expertise to literally thousands of DIY'ers on this board. To assume that he has an ulterior motive is ludicrous. Speaking for myself, I daily help DIY'ers in person to fullfil their masonry projects, no matter what they may be, as well as service masonry contractors, architects and engineers in the masonry field. I visit this board specifically to help DIY'ers, not to sell them anything. Concretemasonry has me beat in experience, but I have been involved professionally in the concrete industry for 20+ years, both as a contractor and as a supplier. If you would like to discuss actual methods of making faux stone, I would be interested, both because I am involved in the industry and because I think it is personally a very interesting subject.
Tscarborogh, I'm sure he has tons of expirience in other areas but he has NO experience making his own stone veneer. He might want to make it sound more complicated than it is but until he does it he cant say anything more than...I don't know yet. You guys may have been right in other forum topics but you are certainly wrong on this one. Experience triumphs over speculation any day in my book. If anyone else on this forum has any experience making stone veneer please help me set these guys straight.
Actually, I am a commercial masonry supplier. Cultured stone is less than 5% of our business, cement and CMU are 80% with brick and tools the remainder. I do have experience with molding concrete on both a large and small scale, and extensive experience with colored concrete and mortar. As I said, if you want to discuss the technical aspects, I think that would help the DIY'ers.
This is a good start for the technical aspect of making your own veneer stone: http://www.icc-es.org/Criteria/pdf_files/ac51.pdf As you can see, the primary limitation is the weight per square foot. Using standard concrete without lightweight aggregate, and assuming a 1-1/2 thickness of stone, I come up with around 18.75# per SqFt, dry. This alone exceeds the standard and could cause delamination of the substrate, if not structural problems. Lightweight aggregate is readily available in various forms and should always be used for veneer stone. There is even a bagged concrete mix in national distribution that contains lightweight aggregate and has a high early and compressive strength to boot. For a DIY'er this is what I would recommend, since it removes a large part of the guesswork from the equation.
Here is a breakdown of costs, assuming I was a DIY with none of the tools required for a 2200 SqFt project: Tools: 3CuYd Mixer: 400.00 20SqFt Molds: 500.00 Trowels and Misc: 100.00 Total: $1000.00 Materials: Lightweight Concrete Mix (per CuYd) 162.00 Coloring and release (per CuYd) 80.00 Total: 222.00 Yards required (216SqFt per Yd): 10 Total material cost: $2220.00 Labor: 2 hours per batch @ 20.00 per hour (2200/20): $2200.00 Total cost per SqFt: $2.46 per SqFt Not bad, overall, though I consider my labor to be worth more than 20.00 bucks an hour and I would assume at least 10% waste and breakage (probably closer to 20%). The numbers go up rapidly for projects smaller than this, though, and since most DIY'ers have a job, I still do not see making your own stone as a viable alternative for individuals. For a small homebuilder, maybe, for someone looking to sell the product, sure, but a homeowner simply does not have time to expend to make it work. Most projects that I sell, other than commercial, are in the range of 70-400 SqFt, and those DIY'ers would certainly not profit from attempting to do it themselves. For a select few, it can work, and I would and do encourage them to go for it, just like I do for acid staining floors and creating concrete countertops.
Thats more like it Tscarborough....thats what I was hoping would happen here, real breakdowns and real discussion. Good idea to take into consideration the equipment breakdown. I would guess that the only people that would really use rubber molds like these are those that either do a lot of small projects or larger projects like the one I took on. I wouldn't suggest making your own stone if you have 1 or 2 small 70sqft projects...unless you want to customize your color scheme, then thats another story. In pre-planning I took the weight of the stones (without using lightweight aggregate) into consideration and I did the following: I poured my concrete into the molds the same depth as the current industry standard sizes for quick fit panels (All major manufacturers carry a version) which comes out to roughly 1 thick which made my stones roughly 12lbs per sqft - saturated. I would have liked to use lightweight aggregate but couldn't get any unless I was willing to pay for an entire load. I wander how staining stone veneer would work. I'm thinking it would be to tedious and time consuming but I never did it myself. Any ideas?
It can be done, as any unsealed concrete can be stained. I've done it on poured formliner walls, which are difficult because 1) they are vertical, and 2) you need to use several random colors to make it look realistic. Detailing on a standing wall is a pain. For your veneer, I would suggest staining them in lots while they are laying horizontal. Then, after you seal them you have several colors that you can lay up in a random pattern. I used acid stain, which gives a natural look, but has many properties that need to be understood and addressed. Acid stain color is permanent, while pigmented stains are more like diluted paint, and may cause color loss in the future. The stain can be applied with an all-plastic sprayer, which makes it fast and easy. Pecos
Let's keep this thread civil as in the last 4 or 5 posts. Any further comments and remarks of a personal rather than technical nature will not be tolerated.
In all this discussion, has anyone mentioned air-entrained concrete in exterior applications? I'm not all that familiar with stone veneer, but I have been a concrete contractor for 20 years in a freeze/thaw climate. I have seen countless jobs (not mine) that look good for a few years, then rapidly fall apart because the concrete was not air-entrained and was damaged by freezing. Likewise, I've seen a lot of jobs that have popouts and spalling due to absorptive aggregate, called chert, that was in with the batched gravel. Almost all of these jobs had been properly sealed, and the builders were at a loss as to the cause of the delamination. I don't know if air entraining is common practice for veneer, but if it's not, could someone explain why not? Thanks! Pecos
If you are dealing with wet cast concrete for exposed use in a climate where there is freezing, air entrained concrete is necessary. You can buy air entrained cement and in some cases you can buy air entrained pre-proportioned concrete mixes. These usually give you the correct amount of air for durability. If you are adding chemicals to the concrete mix, you end up with an unknown amount amount of air and durability will suffer. Adding an excess amount of fines (pozzlanics) will increase the surface area of the mix and will also reduce the air entrainment and decrease durability. Excessive amounts of pozzolanics and fines decrease the effectiveness of both the cement and air entraining agents. If a super plasticizer is used, the dosage rate of an air entraining agent must be adjusted to get the correct percentage of air. This is done at a costruction site using the typical site testing equipment. Non-wetcast concrete has a different pore structure and air entraining agents are not needed. Because durability is so critical, air entrainment is one of the most researched items in the field of concrete. Without a proper air void system, the moisture in concrete can cause deterioration when subjected to freezing. Higher strength concrete is not a substitute for air entrainment. Dick
So Dick, are you saying that air entraining is needed in veneer, or not? Pecos
Several of the sites selling molds recommend the use of air entrained concrete for veneer in areas that may have cyclical weathering. The ASTM standard is listed as a work in progress. It may be possible that some of the manufactured stone manufacturers do not need it if their process is closer to a zero slump or dry tamp mix and does not react like a wet cast concrete. Of course, the major manufacturers have huge investments in production facilities ($1,000,000 to $20,000,000 per plant), research and advertising and have done extensive long term durability testing. In this way they have developed a process/materials combination for the product to be durable and have the desired properties. There is nothing to beat the results of long term testing and research. The cost of the air entraining admixes are a very minor item in the production cost. If they do not use an air entraining material, they probablt have to use something else to assist in proper mold filling and uniform density. Many of the stone manufacturers use lighweight aggregate, which is more costly, to reduce the weight and permit the use of thicker units for different appearance and still have a surface veneer application. The good lightweight aggregates do have internal air voids that can help in durability in many cases. The use of lightweight aggregate requires considerable testing and may require prewetting of the aggregate, so it is not for the casual user. Concrete products manufacture can be a very sophisticated process. The increased international influence on cement plants has contributed to more technical and exotic uses of concrete products. They apparently see where this can increase the volume by making better products. Interlocking pavers, which are some of the most durable concrete products and are subjected to severe salt and freeze/thaw conditions do not use traditional air entrained concrete because they are manufactured using zero slump concrete and not wet cast concrete. They get performance by maximizing density and minimizing the anount of potentiall reactive cement paste while still getting 8,000 to 10,000 psi strengths. Dick
dear how you can kindly help me to start producing my veneer stones and to get the molds and the color technique[recipes] pleas? regards riyadh mihssen iraq-babel-hilla
Would you please kindly provide with some links and more information if is possible please. I plan to retire and stone making seems like an interesting project for the nearest future. To DidItMyself: can you tell me what company you purchased molds from please. I have found several companies some cheap some pretty expensive. For me expensive is more then 5000$ and some companies would sell rubber molds for 12,000+. At this point information for me is the most important thing. I want to know everything related to the topic. To Concretemasonry, Tscarborough. You do write like people who can help me with references: books, websites, manual instructions. I would appreciate if you can write to XXXXXXXXX Thanks in advance and regards. Yuriy
It is possible to make them yourself if you have the correct materials. It is doubltful you could equal the quality of the manufactured units. Where are you and what types of lightweight aggregates are available? Dick
thank you for the prompt answer Dick. It is doubltful you could equal the quality of the manufactured units I understand that. All I want is to be able to produce something with reasonable good quality. Where are you and what types of lightweight aggregates are available? Please tell me what you think would be a good production cycle in New York area.
Production cycle depends on how many molds. Why are you worrying about production for a DIY project? If you are planning to sell them, I would no be interested in helping someone sell lower quality products. Dick
If you are planning to sell them, I would no be interested in helping someone sell lower quality products. I don't want to sell them in NY, just learn produce. I plan to make them in Ukraine where stone manufacturing seems like a good alternative for my current occupation because it will keep me away from the computer and market. Anyway thanks and good luck in your business.
ykhm - I was concerned with encouraging someone to produce lower quality stones and degrading the excellent job the current U.S. stone producers have done in the marketing, promotion and quality control of manufactured stone. That is the reason I asked where you were from. The expansion they are talking about into Europe is one of the first things the concrete industry has brought to Europe in years instead of receiving technology. I have been to Ukraine and have also spent a great deal of time in Belarus, which has many construction and material similarities. There is certainly a need for a stone veneer as an alternate on the concrete buildings that seem to be the standard for housing. Cultured or manufactured stone could be an asset to the construction industry if it is made to a high standard. I do not know what scale you plan to oprate on, but here is some information that should help a producer planning on a long term operation. You will need a supply of uniform, quality, lightweight aggregate (Ceramzit or Keramzit - translation is poor), which is an expanded shale or clay. Most of what I saw was very high quality, coarse and some was rounded (uncrushed) for the concrete sandwich panel production. It should be possible to get it in a proper size. It is supplied to the precast concrete apartment component manufacturers. You will also need concrete sand. You will also need some pigments (synthetic iron oxide), that probably will have to come from Germany. If you have contacts in Minsk, they may be able to help you find a source. They have made colored, split concrete block for many upper level homes. Ask for Alexi (tell him dick says hello if he is there), who was the director a few years ago. The manufacture of concrete block is not the same as the manufactured stone, but the materials are the same. You should also find a supplier of concrete admixtures to improve the properties of the concrete. Most U.S. suppliers are now owned by European companies, so you should be able to find something available initially. They can provide technical assistance. The cement you have available is very good. I am not an expert on the details of the manufacturing, but the stone mold supplier should be able to give you information on where to start. If they do not have that information, do not buy from that supplier. You will have a difficult time producing stone equal to those in the U.S., but they have a few years advantage. Good luck!! Dick
Hi Dick Keramzit it is something I was about to throw away because nobody would mention it here. Yes Keramzit that we have is rounded (uncrushed) 1/4-3/4 in diameter and I thought roundness would compromise the strength of the stone. We also have scoria from a coal burning electric power station. I thought scoria would be better then Keramzit it would create uniform mixture, don't you think? Also I was going to search for pumice, but not sure if it is available there. Thank you Dick, your information was useful especially about cement and Keramzit . I plan to start on a very small scale (maybe try to make ledgestone enough for a fence) also I will be experimenting with natural stones - sand stones and river stones. But the problem with sand stones is that it is becoming very scarce.. Regards, Yuriy
Your Keramzit should be crushed with a maximum size of 1/4 and the fine dust removed. You will have to use concrete sand also. You do not have scoria (translation problem) from the power plant. It is actually bottom ash, the residual from burning the coal. What I have seen most of it is high in carbon, which is not good. It is probably the size the keramzit should be. You will not find good pumice in your area, to my knowledge. The good pumice used in the U.S. comes from Greek islands. The cost of shipping by water to Odessa or other port and then by truck or rail would be very high. Dick
Dick - got it - no ash and no pumice. What would be proper combination of sand, cement and Keramzit? Sorry I can not tell you property of the cement that we have. You mentioned before it is good enough. It look like you know a bit about Ukraine. Do you often go there, may I ask? ykhm
Can anyone lead me to the correct type and color to be used for the staining of the stone veneer. Also, is there a time frame after the stone is removed from mold that is need to be stained. Thanks
Hi, I am a new member, after reading everything about stone veneers I still can not understand if it is possible to make high quality stone veneer in garage. What should I add to concrete mix if I living in very wet climate . I will be very thanksfull to every one would answer me Dan
Anything is possible but your actual question is, is it probable that I can create high quality faux stone in my garage The answer is probably not, or at least not on a practical or cost effective scale. If it is something you want to try, go for it though.
hello, my name is Camilo iґm from spain. And i want to know how i have to apply the oxide colours in the mould. Could you explain me please? thanks
Hi there, I'm very much intersted in knowing make stone veneers and where I could find the molds needed. Just a short description would do the most for me. You have my thanks for assisting me. Originally Posted by DidItMyself I ran across a website that sold me rubber molds to make stone veneer. I was suprised that they sold me less than 100sqft of molds. I tried to buy from another company and needed to buy at least 100sqft of molds to get started. I just wanted to make enough stone to complete my 2200sqft project so I got a 20sqft package of rubber molds. I was going to pay $7 a sqft for Cultured Stone but after doing the numbers...hmmm...I couldn't afford it. Making my own stone cost me roughly $1.13 cents sqft including labor. I used a high performance concrete mix in order to get 4 castings a day out of my molds, as opposed to the standard 1 time a day. That gave me 80sqft of stone per day so I was able to finish in about 1 1/2 months. I actually had to make around 2230sqft of stone since some of the stone were undesireable due to air-holes...but I fixed that. Real World Bottom Line: 2200sqft job using Cultured Stone @ roughly $7sqft would have cost me $15400.00. 2200sqft job making my own stone @ $1.13sqft costs me $500 for the molds and another $2486 for materials/misc. items. I spent roughly $3000 to make my own stone veneer and saved roughly $12400.00. I sent a picture of the finished project to the folks that sold me the molds so it might be posted on their site under the Parson Residence. If someone else has expirience making stone veneer or any tips or tricks you can pass on...Im all ears cause Im getting ready for another project.
Tags: make, your, stone, veneer, Cultured Stone, make stone, more than, that have, lightweight aggregate, stone veneer, concrete products, have been
I have all fiberglass showers and tubs in my house. Unfortunately, I have hard water and this makes a lot of mineral and soap scum buildup all over the shower. Does anybody know of a product that I can spray or wipe on, leave it on for a few minutes, then just wipe away the soap scum, etc? Right now I use ajax and other general purpose household cleaners and I have to sit there and scrub and scrub and scrub for a long time until I get the soap scum off, and I still can't even get it all off then, this stuff is very persistant!!! also, is there something I should spray on the shower/tub after I use it everytime to prevent the soap scum from building up? thanks
I know of no solution other than elbow grease for removing the scum - I use a mr. clean magic eraser with my elbow grease. Once removed, wiping the walls or using a squeegee after each shower is going to go a long way toward keeping the stall clean. Products desigined to be sprayed in the shower to keep it clean do tend to work as well.
The key to keeping shower scum and mineral deposits at a minimum is to wipe shower after each use with squeegie or chamois. Some claim that using a daily shower mist product after each shower does a good job and saves extra work when it comes to the recommended weekly shower cleaning. Abrasives tend to scratch and roughen up gel coat on fiberglass, making surface more attractive to mineral deposits and scum. Products like Ajax are not recommended for fiberglass. Use only nonabrasive cleaners. There are many cleaning products available in the cleaning aisles that are good scum and mineral deposit removers if given the time to dissolve them. Most do not give their cleaning products time to do their job. Repeat applications may be necessary for severe buildup. Spraying and immediately wiping tends not to be effective where there are scum and minerals. A popular product mentioned in forums for mineral deposit removal is CLR (calcium, lime, and rust remover). A couple powdered cleansers that are safe for fiberglass and excellent rust, mineral, and scum removers are BarKeeper's Friend Zud. Allow cleaner water paste to set to dissolve minerals and scum. Rub off with damp cloth. Repeat applications may be necessary for severe buildup. For a little extra action that will not harm fiberglass, is the pink white ScotchBrite pad to facilitate removal. Once you get the showers and tubs clean, wax with auto wax to provide sheeting action to minimize water drops that adhere to shower walls. Avoid wax on tub and shower floors because they will be slippery and possibly cause a fall. Water drops that cling to shower walls dry, leaving a ledge of mineral deposits. Each time you shower additional drops will find their way to the mineral deposit and cling there. With every shower, the mineral ledge grows larger, attracting more drops, minerals, and scum. Thus, it is important to provide sheeting action and wipe showers down after each use. Then, with the weekly cleaning and maintaining the wax, mineral deposits and scum tend not to be a problem or compound cleaning problems. For water with large amounts of minerals, a water filter/softener system is recommended.
The best way to remove mineral build ups is to use a acidic pH cleaner. CLR should work great. Read the back very carefully. In serveral applications it either reccomends a short dwell time...or a immediate removal after applying
Nobody knows this-but *I* do-and have contacted the company that makes this product, telling them they have the nations number 1 soap scum remover and they don't even know it! It is Easy Off Fume Free Max oven cleaner. It will outclean any soap scum remover. In time and uniformity! Even better than the number one acidic based cleaners on the market! I know because I do side by side testing of every product and have done this for years, when ever any new product comes out on the market. I should be worth millions (several thousand anyway) because of this discovery. This is why it works so effectively: 1: It comes out of the can as a foam and stays put even on the vertical or upside down surfaces! 2. You can leave it on over an entire weekend. (Like if you were cleaning in a rental and forgot it on the tub, let's say). When you clean the tub then, say on Monday, the soap scum has already technically been 'lifted' into the now dried out powdery residue! 3. It reacts with soap scum. It does not work based on acid or lye (lye is what REGULAR* oven cleaner (in the yellow can) has as it's base ingredient. DO NOT USE *IT*!!! The Fume Free Max in the BLUE can (not the yellow can) has as an ingredient, monoethynolomene (something like that), and don't ask me exactly HOW it works. It just does! Just spray it on and leave it for 1/2-1 hour or whatever and do some of your other cleaning in the house. Then come back and you will be surprised how you don't have to use much elbow grease. This is the only product I know of that in effectiveness and speed get off even the most CAKED on soap scum off of college rental house tubs, the fastest and bestest!!!! (Although there is another product I will mention soon) You want to tilt the can first and do the bottom of the tub first, while the can is the most full. Then do the bottom sides of the tub. Then the tub surround. It will clean glass, chrome, aluminum...it REALLY makes the chrome shine! You can use it to clean your sinks, walls-EVERYTHING! It's like this is a secret that nobody knows about and it absolutely blows me away! The company says it is a marketing issue and probably like to invent knew products just so people fill up their closets/under sinks with a whole array of products. Now, this oven cleaner will only clean grease, dirt, oils and soap scum...but not the lime. BUT- I have found in my many, many years of experience in the cleaning field that there is a phenomonen that occurs in most tubs. Even though there is lime, it must mostly get imbedded in the soap scum! Because how else do you explain that by just using the oven cleaner, the fiberglass, or cast iron, or steel tub comes clean? But-if you do find lime, then use an acidic based cleaner like vinegar work!, or use new Easy Off Bam. That stuff was the only cleaner that removed dog feces imbeded in asphalt floor tiles in a basement! The reason I don't like EasyOff Bam on shower soap scum is that even though it is a gel, it stil runs and streaks. And in between the clean streaks, it does not clean as well, overall, as the oven cleaner. I actually had to redo a tub with the ovcen cleaner after I first experimented with the Bam product first. Now, the oven cleaner is expensive at about $3.44 a can at one of the home centers. And aerosol cans do not give you the volume you get with a pump spray bottle. So, for heavily soap scum laden tubs, I use the oven cleaner to expedite, to save me money by the time I save. But another good product is Tilex soap scum remover. It has to say soap scum remover on the bottle!!, as Tilex also sells mildew remover and other products! So, I have both on hand and have used both on tubs, depending on what my time constraints are, etc. ................................... Disclaimer: I have years of experience using said product with no ill effects. But I recommend you use product at your own risk and test try it first, as many products say to, on least conspicous areas.
Read cleaning product labels carefully. Many products will ruin brass and chrome fixtures.
I will try the oven cleaner suggestion above because I too am always looking for the best cleaner but my best suggestion at this point is a product called Kaboom followed up with a steam cleaner application. Kaboom is available at my neighborhood supermarket but I also have purchased it from Home Depot. I used it before with good results on our fiberglass shower. There was a dirty little ring on the floor of the shower around the drain that I hated the most and couldn't get off with Oxyclean or bleach. I tried Kaboom at the suggestion of another forum and was successful but didni't like the fact that I still had to use a fair amount of elbow grease. We also have a water dispenser on the front of our fridge. The little shelf and surrounding area where you set your glass to be filled is black plastic. The white /gray scale or whatever it is has always looked terrible and really shows up against the black. The Kaboom cleaned it a little but didn't really help that much. Then recently, I used the Kaboom again on the black plastic but I had my steam cleaner out cleaning the rest of the fridge. When I was about to wipe up the Kaboom after letting it sit for a while, I used the steam cleaner first. Boy Howdy! The black plastic looks almost like new (except for the marks left from my previous scrubbing with inferior products.) Conclusion: I'm thinking that the Kaboom is a good thing to put on the scale or hardwater scum and let it sit (for a short while, per label instructions) then steam it and then wipe (with a microfibre cloth, my favorite anyhow.) I'm also thinking that the steam cleaner may be a good tool to work with almost any cleaner after you've let the cleaner soak in. The steam may really do a good job of rinsing the scum/dirt out of whatever surface you are trying to clean. P.s. the walls of my fiberglass shower are staying fairly clean since I wiped them down with WD40 (except for the floor, don't want any slips). I'm thinking the WD40 might work a little like Rain X on car-windshields (which I've also heard can be good on shower walls). I think the WD-40 must be preventing new scum from forming because my shower has never looked better and it has been about a month since I cleaned and wiped it down with the WD-40. The WD-40 is easy to apply similar to the oven cleaner above. It stays in place, no dripping but you do have to rub a bit.
a shower that smells like WD40, yuuucccckkkk..
Originally Posted by squale a shower that smells like WD40, yuuucccckkkk.. SUPER YUCK!!!! why would you even do that??? doesn't it leave a stinky oily residue? what if you rub up against it?? blech! waxing the cleaned shower, like 12pole suggested, would be the way to go, or using one of those after-shower sprays. my husband just used a tiny spritz of WD-40 on a stubborn old bathroom faucet he was trying to remove and it reeked in there for DAYS. i can't even imagine the gagging stench that would be produced from spraying an entire shower with that stuff. i've always used The Works for scum (melts right through it with no scrubbing), but it's got some pretty harsh fumes (they go away that day though). next time, i'm gonna give the Fume Free Easy Off a try......
will the fume free easy off hurt the fiberglass, or metal/stainless shower fixtures? I am sure it doesn't say anything on the bottle about using on the shower since it's an over cleaner..
according to ecman1's post above, no. it doesn't hurt the metal shelving racks inside my oven, so i'd think not. but test it on a small area first if you're unsure. as twelvepole said, it could harm some brass chrome areas.
I don't even remember the smell being that bad especially if I compare it to the smell of bleach which I can't tolerate at all. Even a Pinesol smell is more difficult to tolerate than WD-40, IMO. Each to his own. Guess I was so glad to find something that returned the fiberglass to looking brand new. My husband didn't say anything either about the smell. But even if it did have a bad smell (to someone else) for a couple of days, looking at the results made it worth it since the application has been good for a month and counting. Perhaps lemon oil would do the same thing. I've heard of using that also but the dripless spray on the WD40 can really makes it easy. The main point is to make the surface of the fiberglass less porous (I'm speculating) and thus give the scum less of a surface area to cling to. The Kaboom smell is pretty potent, smells like it may not be very good for the environment (also speculating) so if the WD40 keeps me from having to use powerful cleaners more often, I think that is a win-win for me. I wonder if Lemon Pledge might work? p.s. editing to comment that I forgot to respond about the oily residue - there definitely wasn't one. There is a rough texture to the fiberglass so maybe that helps hide any residue or maybe our fiberglass need the treatment and the oil was absorbed but it basically was just a nice finish and looked brand new. (I learned about the lemon oil being used on bathroom tile from a hotel mail so don't think wd-40 is all that different as far as what it does.)
i think the WAX would do the same thing probably stay on even longer. or that Rain-X stuff for car windshields. or the stuff they make to spray on shower walls after showering. all keep the walls slick so the gunk won't stick.
be careful with wd40, I heard it can eat away rubber, etc... so I am not sure what it might do to fiberglass over time
Remember to get easy Off Fume Free Max in the blue can!!!! Not the yellow can regular heavy duty lye cleaner!!! It makes the chrome shine. I have never used it on brass though. I haven't wrecked one thing with it. In fact I use it to clean lots of stuff now, as I have gotten over the fear. Kaboom is one of those acid based cleaners and dissolves lime scale. So does new Easy Off Bam. So does household vinegar! But all these require time to work. You aren't going to be able to apply ANY of these and hope to wipe off caked-on rings. You should apply it like you would in making a poltice and wet it in toweling and wrap it around what you want to have soak with it, so it don't dry out. But these acid cleaners WILL, and do (believe me, unfortunately - tarnish chrome!!! And they will streak and turn stainless steel from a mirror shiny silver to a dull gray!! Do NOT allow this to run down onto/into stainless steel. My blue can oven cleaner won't hurt it though. I don't even use that yellow can stuff anymore for anything. Regarding thre WD-40: Sure the results aren't the placebo effect? Here is why; I have conducted side by side testing between it and silicone spray on outside locks. I have found the silicone spray to retain it's slipperiness after many rains. But the WD-40 did not!
Yes, I also have heard that applications where most people use WD-40, silicone spray is actually much better. But in this case, given the difference in how the fiberglass looked before I applied the Wd-40 and after, I have a sense that the fiberglass actually needed the oily part of the WD-40 (which the silicon spray doesn't have.). It is hard to describe but you know when you look at an old fiberglass tub or fiberglass swimming pool where it might be clean of any dirt or grunge but it still has a whitish cast to it, kind of like it might have dried out a little? Well, the Wd-40 restores it somehow, I can only say it looks close to brand new. I'm thinking the fiberglass may actually need the oil. I don't have anything to back my conjecture up with though, just guessing. Something kind of on a different subject but related, I had some plastic eyeglass frames that I liked very much but had worn for many years. One day, the bottom part of the frame (under where a lens fits in) just had a clean break for no reason as far as I could tell. There had been no pressure or anything. The guy at the place where I bought new eyeglasses said this happened with plastic frames, over time, they just dried out and there would be a break somewhere. So...I'm thinking over time, the fiberglass may in fact dry out, especially if you're using harsh chemicals to clean it. And the dryness actually causes the fiberglass to get dirtier quicker because it doesn't repel dirt as well as it does when it is new. Maybe this is obvious to everyone else but if you could see the before and after of the WD-40, at least in MY shower, it would be easier to explain. Since the spray is so fine, WD-40 is also good because you can control how much you put on very easily. Now that I've written all this, I'm thinking there is probably some kind of spray treatment just for fiberglass just for this purpose, LOL (but I bet it is more expensive). -- (I'm too tired to google for this right now.)
how long does a typical fiberglass tub/'shower last for until it starts to look all old and whitish?
Fiberglass if properly maintained should stay looking good for years. The gel coating on shower pan or tub bottom usually shows signs of etching and wear before shower or tub walls. Typically, 15-20 years is the life expectancy of a fiberglass unit. Note that higher quality tub and shower units tend have a thicker gel coat.
Found this info below about fiberglass boats. I've cut out the part that you could conceivably apply to fiberglass showers. I thought the part about rubbing compound needed under the wax was interesting - sounds like WD-40 might be a candidate? I may go to a Boat store and see what they sell for rubbing compounds for fiberglass. If it is slip proof, I would feel much better about using it than I do WD-40. Also, squale, our shower isn't very old, only 4 years old. It WAS whitish but I think that was from the chemical cleaners I had tried in my efforts to remove the scum. Not sure how long it takes for fiberglass to naturally age but with the extra impact of harsh chemicals, I think it takes less than 4 years. But as I've indicated, it looks to me that I've found an easy way to refurbish my fiberglass, but still plan to check with the boat store. from: http://www.boats.com/content/default...contentid=1305 The topsides of a boat are the area between the waterline and the rail, and they take a tremendous beating from the effects of spray, sun, and even the occasional brush with a pier. Fiberglass boats have the color molded into the surface gelcoat, but you'll need to polish the topsides at least yearly to keep it bright and shiny. Without care, the color layer can oxidize, causing white hulls to turn dull and colored hulls to take on a hazy cast. To keep the fiberglass in like-new condition, you should wax it regularly, using a wax formulated for marine use since automotive waxes don't have the fillers needed to seal the pores in the gel coat. If you wax the hull regularly, you'll never need to worry about any oxidation, but you'd be the exception. Most of us have to use a mild rubbing compound first to remove the haze and then finish up with a good marine wax to restore the shine. You can do it by hand, but you'll be a lot happier if you buy or rent an automotive buffer with several different pads. Keep the buffer moving so it doesn't heat up the fiberglass and watch out for edges or corners where you can accidentally buff through the color coat. Deck
ANother idea that I use- dryer fabric sheets. You wet the sheet, rub it over the walls, and rinse. It not only removes the soap scum, but the fabric softener in it repels the water beads, thus preventing scum buildup. I use it about once every two weeks, and it seems to keep the scum level down. Blessings, Debbie
Some gel coats on fiberglass showers is thicker than others. Always proceed with the least abrasive method possible for cleaning before bring out the big guns. Baking soda and water paste is probably the least abrasive cleaner available in a home. Abrasive cleaners and abrasive scrubbies tend to wear away gel coat, scratch, and dull finish, thus compounding cleaning problems. Proceed with caution if using rubbing compound on fiberglass showers as rubbing compound tends to reduce gel coat. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to shower maintenance. Wiping daily after each use and weekly cleaning tend to reduce cleaning problems associated with scum and mineral deposits. If mineral deposits are severe and a chronic problem in the home, then a water softener/filter system may be necessary.
Well, guys, I am definitely DEFINITELY still sold on WD-40. I last posted here in November about using it (with a lot of elbow grease) in my fiberglass shower. The shower was fairly new but had accumulated stains from hair coloring and soap scum that I was struggling to clean. I found a cleaner but it seemed that the fiberglass got stained quickly again. Hated the weekly cleanings that were not just a swish and a wipe. And even when clean, the fiberglass had a whitish cast from the chemicals. Well, my shower still looks pretty darn good. I still encourage anyone who wants to spiff up their fiberglass shower to give it a try. Haven't had to use Kaboom or any strong chemical since I first applied WD-40. I don't mind scrubbing here or there but I was having to make a career out of keeping that fiberglass clean and nice looking. Not anymore. Also, in the meantime, on another forum, someone indicated that RAINX as mentioned by someone in this thread is definitely not to be used indoors. It is toxic. Apparently RAINX has a specific product (called something else) which they recommend for indoors. NOTE: I'm not recommending WD-40 for the bottom of the shower. Maybe someone could slip before it soaked in. Another note: There doesn't appear to be any wearing of the fiberglass surface of the shower by any chemical in WD-40. I suspect that Kaboom might actually cause more surface damage and now that I'm using WD-40, I don't have to use Kaboom. (Sill use Oxyclean on some of the fiberglass seams but only about once a month, every week is not required.)
I used Easy-Off Max (blue can) on a regular tub (porcelain? enamel?), including the tiles and soap dish. Works GREAT and couldn't be any easier: Spray on, turn on the exhaust fan, close the door and go away for an hour. So thank you, ecman1. Janet
ive tried the oven cleaner to no avail then a thought occured to me when cleaning the glass stovetop try some of the cleaners on the market for cleaning smooth top stovetops i used weiman cook top glass cook top cleaner the results are amazing a bit of elbow grease but it absolutely removed residue that ive been unable to remove for a long time leaving my shower super shiny and very smooth to the touch just thought i would pass this on to people with hard, iron rich water try it and let me know if you have any success it also returned the luster to my glass shower door
i have found the easiest and cheapest way to clean soap scum is to buy a LARGE bottle of very inexpensive shampoo. this cuts the scum so easy. cheap bubble bath will do it too. u could probably mix a heavy solution of this for a spray bottle, but, i simply put a shallow amount of hot water in tub and add shampoo. then simply use ur normal cleaning cloths and dip and wash, dip and wash. (get scented shampoo and leaves nice scent in bathroom as well.) rinse and ur done.
Glad I found this thread! Had to clean a fiberglass shower stall at my daughter's newly rented unit that probably hadn't been done in 10 years. The soap scum was horrible. Using the tips here - soaked w/ Easy Off Fume Free Max oven cleaner then used damp dryer sheets to remove. It took two passes to clean this neglected stall. This process saved *lots* of work. I then used my orbital buffer and applied a coat of auto sealant to the unit. Thanks to the OPs for tese tips!
Holy cow! I have been struggling with finding a way to get my bathtub looking clean again and have to agree that the Easy Off Fume Free Max + removing with damp dryer sheets worked like an absolute charm. Hardly any scrubbing necessary...just a touch of pressure when removing. I will probably wear rubber gloves next time as a precaution, but thoroughly impressed with how well that worked. Thank you all for writing about it here...you saved me heaps of time!
The easy off max in the blue can WORKED for my soap scum!!!! (make sure you watch your calk tho). I had tried LOTS AND LOTS OF THINGS!! and I sprayed the easy off on, let it set 30 min then used a soft bristled brush and it came RIGHT OFF!!!!! Easy as PIE!!!... Thanks for the info!!!! Rena
I've been trying to refurbish shower surrounds and tubs in apartments and homes for many years and tried at least 30 different products, all claiming to remove soap scum and built up deposits from hard water. None worked to my satisfaction until I tried the Easy Off Fume Free Max (blue can foaming). It's truly the first product that has worked well for me. My usual routine is to use a polishing compound, then the Easy Off Fume Free Max (which also makes it easy to remove any slinging from the polishing compound), wash the tub and surround and then apply an automotive wax and buff. The polishing compound also cleans up the faucet and hardware in a jiffy. Thanks for the answer to a problem that's plagued me for years.Beer 4U2
Here is my new method. I have been struggling for years with hard water and rust. Start by using a plastic stiff bristle brush with handle. Mix a little laundry detergent and hot water in a bucket. Dip the brush in and scrub off the soap scum. This just takes a few minutes. Then squeegee dry. Buy some Rustaid Outdoor from Ace Hardware or where ever you can get it. Costs about $10.00 and it lasts along time. Also buy some really cheap scrub sponges like the 3M brand but not the 3M brand. The scrubbing side of 3M brand is too abrasive. After Scrubbing off the soap scum get a medium size mixing bowl and keep it in the bathroom. Pour about two cups of Rustaid in the mixing bowl and wipe on the whole shower with the sponge. You will watch the rust almost instantly disappear. Any tough spots may need a second application. I scrub down the shower after with the abrasive side of the sponge or the bristle brush. ( this step may not be necessary.) I you do test a small spot for scratches, but I haven't had any problems. That's why I recommend the cheapest sponges you can get. After that rinse the shower with clean water and squeegee dry. Very little fumes from cleaner. Don't use a spray bottle. I think you will be amazed.
Originally Posted by TFCinVA I've been trying to refurbish shower surrounds and tubs in apartments and homes for many years and tried at least 30 different products, all claiming to remove soap scum and built up deposits from hard water. None worked to my satisfaction until I tried the Easy Off Fume Free Max (blue can foaming). It's truly the first product that has worked well for me. My usual routine is to use a polishing compound, then the Easy Off Fume Free Max (which also makes it easy to remove any slinging from the polishing compound), wash the tub and surround and then apply an automotive wax and buff. The polishing compound also cleans up the faucet and hardware in a jiffy. Thanks for the answer to a problem that's plagued me for years.Beer 4U2 My fiberglass tub has been an embarssment for years in my house. I am going to try the above method, but have a question. Did you find that the automotive wax and buff to be too slippery on the floor of the tub?
Do you have a 'slippery' problem with using the automotive wax on the floor of the tub with this method?
i would not advise waxing the floor..i havent tried the above method.....but when you wax a car it is very smooth and slick...same thing may happen to the painted surface of the tub...a good scrubbie and comet usually takes care of the floor...if the deposits build up too fast...test you water to see if there is a filter that can help matters
I tried the Easy Off Fume Free on my fiberglass tub - it worked so BEAUTIFULLY! I think this is the greatest cleaner, and I'm so glad that I took your suggestion! Speaking of suggestions...I have jets in the tub that keep getting black and mildewy- any ideas get and keep them clean, too? Thanks again!
I have a fiberglass surround, with the same issues - hard water stains, soap scum buildup. Have used vinegar, rain-x,dryer sheets, and spray bathroom cleaners with good initial results, but not lasting. I was out of my regular cleaner today, and did not want to clean myself up for a run to the store, so started looking at products I had on hand. Well, what do you know, Oxyclean can also be used on soapscum and hardwater stains! Tried it, and it made cleaning , especially the sopascum, a breeze! If I get ina situation where I'll need to bring out the big guns, I'll definitely try the oven cleaner all of you rave about!
Why was ecman banned? His suggestion of using EZ off (blue can) was brilliant! I was going to replace my shower it was so impossible to clean. One can later and very little elbow grease and it looks beautiful. Now it matches my very pretty pink and white bathroom with see through shower curtain. Thank you ECman!!
Im glad his suggestion worked out for you. That member showed counterproductive behavior in another thread or forum on the site..which was disruptive.
I must admit I was a skeptic and was not sure this would work but I just applied the easy off max (blue can) ( I even actually had a can under my sink) to my plastic Bathtub and it worked, my bathtub has never been so clean. This is the best advice I have ever received from the internet! I can't believe I spent money on other cleaners.
I'm trying the Easy-Off Blue as we speak. Hopefully it works as well as others have stated. I've been having the best luck with The Works cleaner but still a lot of scrubbing involved. I'll post back later with results.
OMG!! Just tried the easy-off blue - worked AWESOME!!!!!! soooooooooo gratefule I came across this!
I bought a GE gas water heater model PG40S09AVG00 from Home Depot in Dec 2006. I paid for an extended service contract through Dec. 2022.Recently I tried to drain some water at the bottom of the tank to get rid of sediments. I got half a bucket, but the 2nd time I when I turned on the faucet, no water came out. I gave it several turns to no avail. I tried this several times. When turning the knob it makes a funny sound. I called GE at 1-800-431-1549 on 10/22/08. I was told that they could not find a service Company in my area which is Elmont NY 11003. They will call me back, I waited 2 days and called again. they said that they are still looking. On 10/29/08 I called again and was told they can't find anyone to service the water tank. I contacted Home Depot at 800-437-3783 Option 1 and got a helpful representative. After she contacted GE I got a call back from Home Depot explaining that I would have to find my own repair service, pay for it and then be reimbursed by GE. She gave me their tel. # I contacted their Customer Care department. They verified what Home Depot had told me. They gave me a case # and a FAX # where to mail the bill up to $250. Above this I have to get an OK before the repair is made. GE Custome Care # 1-800-793-3768. FAX # 1-877-763-3006
I can't help with warranty service, they will switch you to someone elese until you stop calling. But you may have a large buildup of sediment, which has blocked the drain spout. That can usually be cleared with a coat hanger, but the water is HOT, so you will need hand protection for when the water starts to flow. Relieve the pressure in the tank by turning off the water supply(and turn off power or gas), at the water inlet or the house supply. Then open the safety valve on the side at the top of the tank(with something to catch the water). Open the drain valve, with something under to catch the water, or a floor drain. With a coat hanger or piece of thin wire, probe the open valve. You should begin to get some flow, which may stop and start, more probing until you get continuous flow. Once flow is established, let it run until the debris has cleared. Reset everything and you should be OK. The drain valve is plastic, so there may now be scratches on the ball valve and you may get drips. A catch pan may be needed. But flush the heater 2-3 times a year and you will likely get much better than average life from it.
Frankly, these days the warranty on almost anything is nearly a joke. On things that need on site service, when you are in a rural area that often compounds things. It seems that although you had to go through quite a bit of red tape, they have gone the distance in ultimately honoring your warranty in the best way they can. The alternative at some point will be to give you a whole new tank , but they will try to avoid that if at all possible. This is why for most things I basically opt for self-insured, because my cynical nature tells me that any supposed warranty may be science fiction.
Tags: water, heater, warranty, Home Depot, call back, called again, catch water, coat hanger, drain valve, from Home