Wednesday, February 26, 2014

help-w-wiring-a-leviton-switch-with-outlet

Help w/ Wiring a Leviton Switch with Outlet


I'm trying to change out a regular switch with a leviton single pole switch with grounding outlet. The problem I'm having is the switch is at the end of the circuit.....Source is coming into light then goes to switch. I ran a 14/3 cable from the light to the switch, but not sure where to connect the new red wire. Right now, I have this setup... http://www.indepthinfo.com/wire-swit...t-switch.shtml black from source is tied to white painted black from switch. white from source is tied to white from ceiling fan black from switch is tied to blue black from ceiling fan I have the new leviton switch installed with the red wire hanging loose on both ends. (light switch works fine). I figure the red has to attach to the silver screw on the leviton switch, but not sure if it should pigtail on source's black or white wire? any help is appreciated. Thanks, Joe I'm trying to figure out how you knew enough to run some needed extra wire (neutral needed for outlet), but yet don't know complete the wiring? On those combo switch/outlets (I wish I had one in front of me. I think I have one in a pail in my old truck), it seemed to me that you have some sort of option with a built in jumper off the hot side (gold or dark screws) of it, that you can either allow a single hot wire to feed both the outlet and switch, or, have it so the outlet and switch can have their own separate hot feeds (say in case you want to run something powerful off the switch, and then need a separate circuit to run say a hair dryer off the outlet) Since nobody else responded yet, and this really should be fairly simple, refresh my memory as to what that switch looks like as far as how many total wire hookup screws it has, how they are oriented in relation to being across each side of the switch portion and the outlet portion, what color they are, and if there is indeed a brass jumper between the hot (gold screw)side of the outlet that has the small slot, and the same side of the switch. I'm a electrical designer so I can read schematics with no problem, just new to physically doing the work. I knew I needed a neutral just not sure when to tie it in since both white black are hot from the light....and the switch acts as a disconnect. I guess I was over complicating it and finally realized the white coming from the source is still neutral until it reaches the light. Red needed to be pigtailed to the white from the source prior to hooking up to the white of the light. for the record, The switch/outlet has brass on top left, silver on bottom left 2 connected brass screws on the right. On the switch, I connected the black to the top left, red to the bottom left and white painted black to the right side . Red needed to be pigtailed to the white from the source prior to hooking up to the white of the light. NO This is incorrect. Red is never used for neutral only white. Red is always a hot wire or switched hot wire. Make these changes (If you want the receptacle always hot) At the light fixture 1.) At the light fixture connect the white of the 14/3 to the light fixture white and incoming source white. This will be your neutral to the receptacle. 2.) Connect the black of the incoming source to the black of the 14/3 going to the switch/receptacle box. This will be power to the switch and receptacle. 3.) Connect the red of the 14/3 to the black of the fixture. This will be your switched hot for the light from the switch. At the combination device 1.) Connect the white of 14/3 to the silver screw...(Your neutral) 2.) Connect the black of the 14/3 to the two brass screws that are connected by the tab...(Your constant power) 3.) Connect the red of the 14/3 to the brass screw on the same side of receptacle as the silver screw. (Your switched hot to the light) Thanks for the info Bruto. I believe I have the wiring exactly as you depicted, but just swapped the colors of the wires. Everything works the way it should. Switch turns on/off the light and receptacle is always hot. I'll re-wire according to your diagram so I can keep with the standards and not confuse the next person to touch those wires. Thanks again.








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