Shower control Symmons Temptrol Model A
Help! I have loosened the retaining cap on the diverter valve and I cannot get the teflon (spindel?) out. The mixture/temperature control valve is made by symmons and is a model A. It was leaking and needs to be replaced. Any ideas? Thanks I have a bigger problem... I cannot even get the retaining cap out. Want to share get the retaining cap out? I heard from home depot that the diverter can be pulled out by using a pair of needle nose plier. The trick to getting the retaining cap out is to first turn the spindle to the left, counter clockwise. If the spindle is bottomed out, (completely closed) the cap wont unscrew. Symmons instructions for removing the cap warn that the spindle must be opened halfway before attempting to remove the cap or damge to the cap and or spindle may result. Good luck. P.S. I had the same problem with seat replacement. Finally gave up and live with drip. Not sure which models you have, here is some (hopefully) useful info from the manfacturer. Always check the man.'s site for info, some have good info, some don't. http://www.symmons.com/Customer-Serv...e-Library.aspx search for temptrol, should get about 50 different items, with a few different drawings for each. My experience after repair for water not hot enough is this: Use this for reference: Symmons Temptrol Product Guide | Hat Creek Outfit 1. Back out scalding set screw which will give more turn radius (T-34) - easily accessible and easy to do 2. If that does not help, remove the spindle by opening the valve handle, taking off knob, unscrewing T-11 all the way out, and removing the spindle assembly (TA-10) This may be full of debris (minerals etc) and can be cleaned with vinegar 3. Reinstall all parts and try again 4. If you make the mistake and forget to open the handle before removing T-11, you will have to forceably remove the spindle and use fine grit sand paper on the brass barrel of the spindle to smooth and reduce the radius a bit (been there done that after spacing out one day) 5. Worst case if all above does not work should be having to buy a new spindle at Loews or Home Depot for about $35.00 USD 6. While disassembled you may want to replace some O-Rings and washers which come in a assorted package from your plumbing supply store for about $5.00 USD (just bought yesterday) Good luck all To remove the diverter valve, center it, unscrew and remove the bronze cap. Then use a seal removal tool. The best one for this job will look like an ice pick or a long, thin awl. I used one made by Mac Tools. The sharp tip of this ice pick is bent sharply back and the tool is made from high modulus steel. First pick out the plastic washer or puck you first encounter. The rest of the valve is just high molecular weight (tough) plastic. It will be stuck in there pretty good due to hard water scale build up. Experiment with sticking the seal removal tool down the hole in the middle of the valve, set the sharp tip into the plastic so it bites hard and use leverage to prize out the valve like you were removing a stubborn seal. It may take several tries and a good amount of mother's wit to get the hang of it but it will come out. Clean out the hole and apply plumbers grease to the new valve before pushing it in. As an aside, you can buy the modern and more attractive Symmons Allura model and strip out all the new parts and install them in the cast main body of the old Symmons Temptrol Model A that is still in the wall. This way you avoid paying a plumber and a drywaller $1500 to tear out the wall and sweat the fittings. Everything swaps out just fine. The new trim fits perfectly. You will need special tools 34A and 34B (something like that) to remove and swap out the hot seal and cold seal from the new unit for the diverter valve or the unit will drip. I bought the two tools for eleven bucks and change online at Home Depot. Is this the lever that diverts the water to shower? Also, does the assembly have stop valves behind the escutcheon plate.
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