New 3 ton Goodman 15 seer heat pump
I did it; I took all my tax money and purchased a 3 ton heat pump for our house. Now come the questions Background: House built in 1975 which had a 1984 Janitrol 4 ton heat pump, worked on so many times the air handler was tapped together. Duct work was pressed fiberglass tube, which was falling apart, you could actually feel the cool air radiating through the walls of the duct. Air handler is mounted in the attic. Current situation: Installed new Goodman 3 ton 15 seer heat pump, and all new supply and return duct. Install was just completed yesterday. I used a highly recommended contractor. The contractor said everything looks good right now but he will be back on Tuesday to inspect the system for duct leaks and to make sure I am satisfied with the work. He says he likes to wait a few days to let things settle down, and let the homeowner have time to develop questions about the system. I of course began snooping around right away looking for problems and here is what I found, but I don’t know if this is normal or he forgot something. The air handler lays horizontal, and looks like it was a multi position unit. At the return side there are 2 sets of condensate line connections, one set at the bottom, that is used, and one set at the top that is not used. When the unit runs I can feel air sucking in through the unused condensate holes at the top. Is this normal, or was something overlooked? At the same time at the supply side I can feel cool air leaking from the sheet metal joints of the air handler itself…should these be taped? My neighbour is trying to tell me the AC guy just set the unit on hi for now to see if the duct work was going to spring any leaks over the weekend…but I doubt that cause it has a variable speed blower, not a hi/lo blower like the old unit. Other than these 2 issues...I like what I see with the install Lower end equipment uses smaller gauge sheet metal so leaks can hapen more often. Door should not be taped because it will have to be replaced every time you open it up. Unit should be squared up and re-gasket. Top drain line should be sealed. Thanks for the info, I will get him to plug extra condesate line locations. After ivestigating the sheet metal leaks further, I found the side acess door was not properly set in position before the screws were tightened. I repositioned it and the air leak is sealed.
Related Posts:
Mitsubishi mr slim vs standard heat pump
Mitsubishi 'Mr Slim' vs standard heat pump?I'm delighted to have found this site! I can't believe all the knowledgeable and helpful people here. I have been running wood heat alone for 3 years now...
Problem with concord heat pump air handler
Problem with Concord heat pump / air handlerHello, Long first post coming, sorry. I have a Concord heat pump / air handler controlled by a Honeywell th8320u1008 thermostat that is giving me grief....
Replacing honeywell t8411r heat pump thermostat
Replacing Honeywell T8411R Heat Pump ThermostatHi, I'm looking to replace an old Honeywell T8411R Heat Pump Thermostat with something with similar wiring so I can do it myself. Any suggestion? Tha...
Problem with goodman heat pump
Problem with Goodman Heat PumpI have a relatively new (two year old) Goodman heat pump that's not working properly and I'm about to pull my hair out. The unit doesn't heat all of the time. Sometim...
New heat pump goodman vs westinghouse
New Heat Pump: Goodman vs WestinghouseI have to decide on the new 3.5 ton heat pump unit for my house in the deep south and would some input from this forum. Here is the choice: a Goodman for $360...
